What really works to prevent wrinkles?

What can you actually prevent?

Wrinkles develop as skin cell production slows, skin layers thin, and collagen, the protein that gives skin structure, decreases. Aging skin also retains less moisture. Sun exposure adds damage by breaking down collagen and disrupting elastin, which helps skin spring back. Smoking reduces the production of new collagen. Preventing premature aging is a realistic goal; preventing every wrinkle is a job description no cream can meet. You do not need to treat normal wrinkles unless you want to change their appearance.2

Make sun protection the foundation

Sunscreen helps prevent photoaging, meaning premature skin aging caused by sunlight. UVA reaches deeper into skin and is a major driver of this damage; it also passes through glass. Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against both UVA and UVB, so protection against sunburn is not the only reason to wear it. Combine sunscreen with shade, protective clothing, a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses. A tan from sunlight or a tanning bed accelerates skin aging; use self tanner instead if you want the colour.14

Apply sunscreen correctly, rather than relying on the SPF printed on the bottle.

1. 1Choose a water resistant, broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher. Use it every day on skin not covered by clothing, including cloudy days and winter.
2. 2Apply sunscreen about 15 minutes before going outdoors. Rub it thoroughly into your skin.
3. 3Use at least 1 teaspoon for your face. Most adults need at least 1 ounce to cover all exposed skin, with more needed depending on body size.
4. 4Cover your neck, ears and other exposed areas, not just your face. Protect thinning hair with sunscreen on the scalp or a hat, and use lip balm with SPF 30 or higher.
5. 5Reapply every two hours outdoors and immediately after swimming or sweating.

If dark spots are also a concern, a tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide adds protection against the sun's visible light. Visible light and infrared light also appear to contribute to photoaging, although the role of these wavelengths is still being investigated. Sunscreens with added antioxidants and other ingredients are being explored for additional protection and repair, but their benefits need larger, repeatable studies before firm clinical recommendations can follow.45

Where does retinol fit?

Retinol is a form of vitamin A available without a prescription. It increases collagen production and can reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Stronger retinoids are available by prescription; tretinoin and tazarotene can improve wrinkles by slowing collagen breakdown. Think of retinol as treatment for visible changes, not a replacement for sun protection. Early improvements in skin's look and feel take several weeks, while a noticeable difference in wrinkles usually takes several months. If products bought without a prescription are not helping, a dermatologist can discuss prescription options.3

Follow the product instructions or your prescriber's directions. General starting steps are:

1. 1Test a little retinol on a small skin area. Wait a couple of days and check for marked redness or itching.
2. 2At bedtime, gently cleanse and pat skin dry.
3. 3Apply a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the whole face, avoiding your eyes, nose and mouth. Start every other night for the first couple of weeks, or once every few days if needed.
4. 4Finish with a facial moisturizer.

Retinol can cause dryness, redness, peeling, itching and burning, and increases sensitivity to sunlight. Sensitive or allergy prone skin needs particular care. Talk to your healthcare provider before using retinol during pregnancy or breastfeeding.3

What does moisturizer do for wrinkles?

Apply facial moisturizer every day: it traps water in skin and gives it a more youthful appearance. Better hydration can improve how lines look, which is useful work even without a promise to renegotiate your age. Cleanse gently twice daily and after heavy sweating. Scrubbing can irritate skin, and irritation accelerates skin aging.1

Which habits make a difference?

• Stop smoking. Smoking greatly speeds up skin aging and causes wrinkles.
• Wear sunglasses with UV protection. Repeated squinting contributes to lines that become permanent over time.
• Eat a balanced diet with plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables. Some studies suggest this helps prevent damage linked to premature aging; diets high in sugar or refined carbohydrates can accelerate aging.
• Drink less alcohol. Alcohol dehydrates skin and damages it over time.
• Exercise most days. Some studies suggest moderate exercise improves circulation and immune function, helping skin look more youthful.

When should you stop or see a dermatologist?

Stop using skincare products that sting or burn. With a prescribed wrinkle treatment, some stinging can be expected, but tell your dermatologist rather than changing the treatment yourself. Starting sun protection still helps after visible sun damage has developed, because skin gets a chance to repair some damage.1

If established wrinkles bother you, a dermatologist can discuss treatments beyond creams. Botox blocks signals that make muscles contract, fillers lift or fill deeper folds, and resurfacing treatments address wrinkles and damaged skin. These are treatments for existing changes, not a way to prevent aging entirely. Before any procedure, discuss side effects and your current skincare, medicines and supplements. Potential complications include allergic reactions, swelling, scarring, pain and bruising, and some treatments need repeated sessions to maintain results.2