Does retinol help with wrinkles?

How does retinol help?

Retinol belongs to the retinoid family, a group of vitamin A compounds. Retinol encourages skin cells to shed and be replaced, and helps slow the breakdown of collagen, the protein that gives skin structure and support. Your skin converts retinol into retinoic acid, its active form. Tretinoin is already an active retinoic acid, so the two names are not interchangeable.123

Which wrinkles can it help?

Fine lines are the most reasonable target, including crow's feet at the outer corners of the eyes. Deep folds and wrinkles that remain visible at rest can need a different approach, which a dermatologist can discuss with you. Retinol is not a substitute for treatments that relax facial muscles or fill deeper folds. Wrinkles are a normal part of aging and do not need treatment, even if the skincare aisle would prefer a different policy.45

How should you start using retinol?

1. 1Choose the lowest strength formula you can find. A retinol percentage is not always printed on the packaging, so do not assume an unlisted strength is low.
2. 2Test a small amount on your inner forearm twice a day for four to five days before using it on your face. If there is no reaction, facial use is more likely to be tolerated.
3. 3At night, wash with a gentle cleanser. Avoid rough cloths and gritty scrubs, which can irritate skin and damage its moisture barrier.
4. 4Apply retinol as directed on the product, starting every other night. Build up slowly as your skin tolerates it, rather than starting with nightly use or applying extra.
5. 5Apply moisturizer afterward. If retinol irritates your skin, try a thin layer of moisturizer before retinol to create a buffer.

What else belongs in the routine?

Use broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day on uncovered skin. Sun exposure accelerates wrinkles, and retinoids can make skin more sensitive to sunlight. Shade and protective clothing also help. Avoid doubling up with a retinol serum and a retinol moisturizer. More products can mean more irritation, not better wrinkle reduction.236

Who should be careful?

Do not use retinol or other retinoids during pregnancy. If you have skin allergies, marked dryness, or substantial redness or inflammation, speak to a dermatologist before starting. Sensitive skin is more prone to irritation, especially with first use or high concentrations. On darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, called hyperpigmentation, so starting slowly and using moisturizer matters.34

When should you stop or see a dermatologist?

Stop a cosmetic retinol product if it stings or burns. Itching, peeling, redness, puffiness and scaly patches are possible side effects, not signs that you need a stronger formula. If you use a prescribed retinoid, follow your dermatologist's instructions about irritation instead. If regular use has not produced the improvement you wanted after about three months, discuss your options with a dermatologist rather than escalating the strength yourself.46

A moisturizer can immediately make some fine lines look fuller by trapping water in the skin. That quick change is different from the slower improvement you are looking for with retinol, so judge the retinol over months rather than by how smooth your face looks just after applying cream.6