Does retinol help with acne?

Should you choose retinol or an acne retinoid?

Retinoids are the vitamin A family of ingredients and medicines; retinol is one member, commonly used in cosmetics. If acne is your main concern, adapalene is an acne treatment available without a prescription in the United States. Other options include prescription tretinoin, tazarotene and trifarotene. Availability differs by country.34

Topical retinoids, meaning treatments applied to the skin, treat blackheads, whiteheads and some inflamed pimples. They suit mild to moderate acne, but should not be the only treatment for severe acne with deep nodules or cysts. They can also help fade dark marks left after breakouts and maintain clearer skin once acne is controlled. An acne routine should clear existing spots and prevent new ones, not give the bathroom shelf a promotion.34

How do you use retinol for acne?

Follow your product's directions or your prescriber's instructions. The steps below are general guidance for cosmetic retinol, not a replacement for directions for an acne medicine. A retinol routine can stay simple, without turning a bedtime application into a committee meeting.15

1. 1Test a little retinol on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for marked redness or itching before applying it more widely.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a thin layer, using about a pea sized amount for the face. Keep retinol out of your eyes, nose and mouth. Treat the acne affected area rather than dabbing only individual spots.
4. 4Start every other evening for the first couple of weeks, or less often if needed. Increase use gradually as tolerated and directed.
5. 5Finish with a moisturizer labelled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores.

If cosmetic retinol irritates your skin, applying a thin layer of moisturizer first can help. Avoid duplicating retinol in both a serum and a moisturizer. For a prescribed retinoid, ask your dermatologist before changing the amount, frequency or application order. Use sunscreen every morning: choose broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher, water resistance and a noncomedogenic formula. Seek shade and wear protective clothing too.45

How long does it take, and can acne get worse first?

Acne treatments generally need at least six to eight weeks before fewer breakouts become noticeable. Regular cosmetic retinol use can show improvement around three months; topical acne retinoids can take 12 weeks or longer. Pimples can continue, or temporarily worsen, during the first couple of months. Dryness, peeling, itching and burning are irritation symptoms, not a target to aim for.1345

Who should be careful, and when should you get help?

Sensitive skin needs particular care, and topical retinoids can worsen eczema through drying. Do not use a product you are allergic to. Some topical retinoids are unsuitable during pregnancy; discuss pregnancy or plans to conceive with your clinician before starting. Ask about retinol before using it while breastfeeding.135

Get medical help if acne is deep, painful, causing scars, affecting your mental health or not improving with treatment. Hot, swollen, red skin can signal infection and also needs assessment. Severe acne can require treatments beyond a topical product, including prescription oral isotretinoin, which is a different treatment from cosmetic retinol and requires medical supervision.67