Does retinol help skin pigmentation?

Which pigmentation can retinol help?

Hyperpigmentation means darker areas of skin caused by extra pigment. Retinol can help with brown spots from sun damage. Retinoids, the wider vitamin A family that includes retinol, also help treat postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: dark marks left after inflammation, such as acne. They help disperse melanin, the pigment that gives skin its color, and reduce its transfer between cells. Melasma causes patches of pigmentation influenced by light, heat and hormones. Prescription tretinoin can help fade melasma and is sometimes combined with other ingredients. Do not assume a cosmetic retinol serum is interchangeable with that treatment.24

Treat the cause as well as the mark. If acne keeps producing new spots, fading old ones will not stop new pigmentation. Do not pick or squeeze pimples, because this can cause scars. Medication can also cause pigmentation. Retinoids sometimes help persistent marks, but medication related discoloration can be prolonged or permanent. Ask your prescriber about a possible medication cause; do not stop prescribed medicine yourself.356

How should you start using retinol?

Choose the lowest strength or least intense formula you can find, rather than starting with tretinoin. Not all retinol products disclose their percentage, which is a curious omission for bottles with so much to say. Retinol is available without a prescription in many products.1

Follow the product directions or your prescriber's instructions. For a typical facial retinol routine:

1. 1Test a little on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for significant redness or itching before applying it more widely.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Apply a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the whole face, keeping it out of your eyes, nose and mouth.
4. 4Finish with a moisturizer that does not clog pores.
5. 5Start every other night for the first couple of weeks. Increase use gradually only as your skin tolerates it.

Which sunscreen helps pigmentation?

For dark spots, especially in darker skin tones, choose tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide, with SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum protection and water resistance. Iron oxide helps protect against visible light, which can contribute to dark spots. Look for it in the inactive ingredient list, which is an oddly modest address for something you are actively looking for. Apply sunscreen before going outside to exposed skin. Reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming or sweating. Add shade and a wide brimmed hat. Retinoids can increase sun sensitivity, so use retinol at night.13

How long will fading take?

Retinol can improve the look and feel of skin after several weeks, but lightening dark spots takes months. Once the cause is stopped, a mark a few shades darker than your skin usually fades naturally within 6 to 12 months. Deep pigmentation can take years. Those are natural fading times, not a deadline for retinol results.23

Who should be careful or avoid retinol?

Dryness, redness and peeling can occur. Retinoids can worsen eczema, and people with skin allergies or substantial redness should discuss alternatives with a dermatologist. Irritation can trigger more dark marks in darker skin tones. Stop a product that burns or stings rather than pushing through it. Do not use retinol or other retinoids during pregnancy. Ask your healthcare provider about pregnancy appropriate pigmentation care and any cosmetic ingredients you are unsure about.1347

See a dermatologist if dark spots concern you or treatment is not giving the results you want. Some pigmentation needs prescription treatment, and a dermatologist can combine treatments safely. A prescription treatment is a different option.23