Does retinol help with sun spots?

What does retinol do for sun spots?

True sun spots, medically called solar lentigines, develop after ultraviolet exposure and usually persist throughout the year, unlike freckles that fade in winter. Sun spots also go by age spots and liver spots, giving one patch of pigment more aliases than it needs. Confirmed sun spots are benign and need treatment only if you want to change their appearance.3

Retinol belongs to the retinoid family of vitamin A based skincare ingredients. It speeds up skin cell turnover and is used for dark spots, uneven tone and texture. Treatment can reduce visible signs of sun damage, but much of that damage is permanent. Fading the spots does not erase all the sun damage, despite the ambitious job description on the skincare shelf.45

How long does fading take?

Expect months rather than days for sun spot lightening with retinol. General improvements in skin can appear after several weeks, but that is not the same as a sun spot fading. Prescription tretinoin can reduce solar lentigines with long term use beyond six months. That timeline applies to tretinoin, not every cosmetic retinol formula.12

How should you use retinol?

1. 1Test a little on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for marked redness or itching before starting.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Do not scrub. General retinoid guidance is to wait 20 to 30 minutes after washing before applying.
3. 3Follow the package directions or your prescriber's instructions. For facial retinol, general guidance is a pea sized amount in a thin layer, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Start every other night for the first couple of weeks rather than immediately using retinol nightly.
5. 5Finish with moisturizer. If dryness is a problem, apply moisturizer after washing instead, then wait 20 to 30 minutes before the retinoid.

Who should be careful?

Retinoids can cause dryness, redness, peeling and irritation, and can worsen eczema. Sensitive skin or a history of allergies makes retinol a less straightforward choice. Stop using a product that irritates your skin. Avoid applying retinoids close to the eyes or lips. Some topical retinoids are contraindicated during pregnancy; discuss any retinoid with your healthcare provider before using it while pregnant.124

Can you use retinol in the sun?

You can use retinol during summer, but apply it at night: sunlight can inactivate it, and retinoids can increase sun sensitivity. Protect your skin during the day rather than treating nighttime application as permission to tan.26

Use broad spectrum, water resistant SPF 30 or higher on exposed skin, after other skincare and before makeup, 15 minutes before going outdoors. Seek shade and wear protective clothing and a hat. Protect your skin even in cold or overcast weather. Sun protection reduces new sun spots, can modestly lighten existing ones and helps prevent recurrence after treatment.345

When should you see a dermatologist?

Have an uncertain or unusually coloured spot checked before trying to fade it: skin cancer can resemble an age spot. If retinol is not helping, a dermatologist can discuss prescription retinoids, chemical peels, lasers or intense pulsed light. Procedures can leave pale or dark marks, sometimes permanently; certain laser treatments carry a higher risk of darkening in darker skin.357