What keeps the chapping going?

Lip skin is thin and sensitive, and your lips have no oil glands. Cold weather is not the only culprit: hot, dry conditions and sun exposure also cause chapping. Cheilitis is the medical term for inflamed lips, not a single diagnosis with one cause.12

Licking gives brief wetness but leaves lips drier as saliva evaporates; saliva's digestive enzymes also irritate them. Biting or pulling away flakes creates cracks and sores. Dry indoor air adds another source of moisture loss, including during winter.34

Could your lip balm be part of the problem?

Yes. Some balms contain ingredients that make lips drier, creating a cycle of irritation and reapplication. Lip balm does not make your body stop producing natural moisture. Lip care comes in sticks, salves and ointments, so the shelf offers variety without your routine needing a cast of characters.5

While lips are chapped, avoid fragrance, flavoring, menthol, camphor, eucalyptus, lanolin, phenol and salicylic acid in lip products. For sunscreen balms, avoid octinoxate and oxybenzone while healing. Stop any product that burns, stings or tingles.4

Toothpaste can also trigger an allergic reaction that inflames the lips. If dryness keeps returning, consider toothpaste alongside lip balm, lipstick and other lip products when discussing possible triggers with a clinician.5

How to help your lips heal

  1. 1Choose a fragrance free, hypoallergenic balm. For very dry, cracked lips, use a thick ointment such as white petroleum jelly, which seals in water longer than waxes or oils.
  2. 2Wash your hands before applying balm. Apply it when you wake up, several times during the day and before bed, and reapply after eating or drinking.
  3. 3Before going outdoors, apply a nonirritating lip balm with SPF 30 or higher, preferably containing zinc oxide or titanium oxide. Reapply every two hours outdoors, including in winter.
  4. 4When you catch yourself licking your lips, apply balm instead. Leave flakes alone and skip lip scrubs, which remove the protective outer layer.
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Drink enough water to avoid dehydration and use a humidifier if the air is dry. A bedroom humidifier is especially helpful if you breathe through your mouth at night. A scarf can cover your lips in cold weather, rather than leaving lip protection as the coat's unfinished business. Do not share lip balm, because sharing can spread germs.46

What if ordinary lip care does not help?

Persistent chapping can involve eczema, an allergic reaction, infection or medication, including retinoids such as isotretinoin. Iron or vitamin B deficiency can also cause inflamed lips. Treatment depends on the cause. A clinician can examine your lips, review your history and arrange tests when needed, rather than treating every persistent patch as ordinary dryness.12

When should you see a doctor?

Expect noticeable improvement within two to three weeks of consistent care. See a dermatologist if your lips do not improve, or seek assessment sooner if they worsen or bleed frequently despite treatment. Hot, painful, swollen lips need medical assessment because they could be infected. Persistent dry, scaly lips can also be actinic cheilitis, a precancerous condition associated with sun exposure.1467

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Chapped Lips (Cheilitis): Causes, Treatment & Preventionmy.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Cheilitisdermnetnz.org
  3. 3How To Get Rid of Chapped Lips: 6 Remedieshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  4. 47 dermatologists' tips for healing dry, chapped lipsaad.org
  5. 5Is Chapstick Bad for You?health.clevelandclinic.org
  6. 6Sore or dry lipsnhs.uk
  7. 7Chapped Lips (Cheilitis): Causes, Treatment & Preventionmy.clevelandclinic.org