Why does lip balm make my lips peel?

Is it irritation or an allergy?

Irritant contact dermatitis means a substance is irritating or damaging the skin. Strong irritants can cause symptoms within minutes or hours; weaker ones can take days or weeks of repeated use. Itchy, scaly patches, a red rash or weeping blisters can occur. Burning, stinging or tingling after applying balm is a reason to stop, not a sign that the product is working.34

Allergic contact dermatitis is an immune reaction to something touching your skin. A rash usually appears more than 12 hours after contact and peaks around 48 hours, with itching, redness or swelling. An allergy can develop after years of using the same product without trouble. Propyl gallate in lip salve is one documented example; an ingredient can be harmless to someone who is not allergic to it.35

Which ingredients should I avoid while my lips heal?

While your lips are chapped, avoid lip products containing:

• Menthol, camphor, eucalyptus, phenol or salicylic acid.
• Fragrance or flavorings, especially cinnamon, citrus, mint and peppermint.
• Lanolin or propyl gallate.
• Octinoxate or oxybenzone.

Look for fragrance free products rather than relying on "unscented": an unscented cosmetic can contain fragrance used to mask other smells. Preservatives, lanolin and propolis are also possible cosmetic allergens. If a particular ingredient causes your allergy, avoiding that ingredient matters more than changing brands.3

What should I do now?

Lip balm comes as sticks, salves and ointments, so the same job has acquired several departments.1

1. 1Stop the balm that causes discomfort or worsens peeling.
2. 2Wash your hands before applying a replacement.
3. 3Apply plain white petroleum jelly several times a day and before bed. A thick ointment holds water in longer than waxes or oils.
4. 4Before going outdoors, use a nonirritating lip sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher containing zinc oxide or titanium oxide. Reapply every 2 hours outdoors.
5. 5Leave loose skin alone. Stop licking, biting and picking your lips, and skip lip scrubs.

Scrubbing removes the protective outer layer and can worsen dryness; peeling skin helps protect the new skin underneath.1

If changing balm does not solve the problem, consider other things touching your lips. Toothpaste and mouthwash can irritate them or trigger allergies. Topical retinoids, benzoyl peroxide and salicylic acid can also irritate lip skin. Saliva contains digestive enzymes that damage the protective barrier, so repeated licking can keep peeling going even after the offending balm is gone.27

Does lip balm make your lips drier?

Some formulas do, but lip balm does not make your lips stop producing natural moisture. Drying or irritating ingredients can create a cycle of discomfort and more application. Petroleum based products help keep lips moist. Lip balm is not physically addictive, although applying it can become a habit.1

How long should healing take?

Ordinary chapped lips should noticeably improve within 2 to 3 weeks. See a dermatologist if they do not. Recurrent itchy, sore or cracked lips can be lip eczema rather than temporary chapping. A clinician can assess the cause and use allergy testing, including patch testing, to identify a trigger.24

Get medical care sooner for lips that are hot, painful and swollen, or severe sores that are open or bleeding. Seek care for hives or swelling around your face, lips or eyes. Call emergency services immediately for trouble breathing or swallowing.26