What does the second cleanse do?

Double cleansing means using an oil based cleanser first, followed by a water based cleanser. The first loosens makeup, sunscreen and excess skin oil, also called sebum. The second removes sweat and dirt.1

Plain water does not remove all dirt that sticks to skin. Cleansers contain surfactants, cleaning ingredients with one part that attaches to oil and dirt and another that lets water wash them away. That is why an ordinary cleanser can already remove oil: an oily face does not automatically require two products.2

When is double cleansing useful?

Consider it when removing waterproof makeup or waterproof sunscreen. If you wear neither, there is usually little reason to add the extra wash. Oily skin can benefit from removing excess sebum first, but oil based cleansers can cause breakouts in acne prone skin, especially when used alone.1

Waterproof cosmetic camouflage is a specific case where two stages can be useful. Remove camouflage makeup from your face and neck before bed. An oily cleansing cream or lotion can be needed to remove it, followed by your normal facial cleansing routine.3

How do you double cleanse?

  1. 1Gently massage an oil based cleanser onto your skin to loosen makeup, sunscreen and sebum.
  2. 2Rinse with lukewarm water, leaving your face damp.
  3. 3Apply a water based cleanser and massage gently with your fingertips.
  4. 4Rinse thoroughly and pat dry with a soft towel.
1

Avoid hot water and scrubbing. Use your fingertips rather than a washcloth, mesh sponge or cleansing tool, which can irritate skin. For ordinary face washing, wet your face with lukewarm water before applying cleanser. Choose a gentle cleanser without alcohol, and apply moisturizer if your skin is dry or itchy.4

Micellar water used to remove makeup before a water based cleanser is an alternative to the oil cleanser method. For dry or sensitive skin, choose a gentle, unscented cream cleanser rather than a more drying foaming formula.1

Should you do it morning and night?

General face washing guidance is once in the morning and once at night, plus after heavy sweating. That means two washing occasions, not two cleansers each time. If you use double cleansing for makeup removal, keep that extra step for the evening removal routine rather than automatically repeating it in the morning.4

Cleansing comes before other skincare products because it removes dirt, dead skin and grime. Follow with moisturizer, and finish your morning routine with sunscreen. One cleanse is enough for a basic routine, so the opening step does not need an opening act. Introduce fewer new products at once and avoid heavily fragranced formulas.5

When should you stop?

Overwashing removes the surface oil film and increases water loss. Skin can become excessively dry, and its protective barrier can become disrupted. Red, dry or chafed skin can be irritant contact dermatitis, a reaction to irritation. Sensitive skin can sting during or just after cleansing; that is a reason to be more cautious, not to scrub harder.2

If you already use acne treatments that stay on your skin, be cautious about adding acne treatment cleansers: too much treatment can cause excessive dryness and irritation. During acne treatment, stick with gentle products and fingertip washing. Avoid scrubbing tools and irritating exfoliants, which can dry skin and make acne appear worse.26

Stop using a product if you develop skin irritation or contact dermatitis, and make an appointment with a dermatologist.5

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Double Cleansing Method Explainedhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Soaps and cleansersdermnetnz.org
  3. 3Cosmetic camouflage, makeupdermnetnz.org
  4. 4Face washing 101aad.org
  5. 5The Correct Order for Skin Care Productshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  6. 6Acne: Tips for managingaad.org