The exact serum name and ingredient list are needed to identify which kind you have. The routine below is general retinoid guidance, not directions for a particular Beauty of Joseon formula. The word serum describes a product format, not a wrinkle result, despite its impressive career in skincare marketing.3

What can a retinoid do for wrinkles?

Retinoids are a family of vitamin A ingredients used on skin. Retinol and retinaldehyde are members commonly added to cosmetics. Retinoids support skin cell turnover and collagen, the protein that helps give skin structure. They are an option for mild fine lines and wrinkles, rather than a reason to expect every crease to disappear.14

Start with the least intense retinoid formula you can find rather than chasing the highest strength. Retinol percentages are not always disclosed on packaging, so a missing percentage does not help you judge strength. Prescription retinoids are separate treatments: tretinoin used for more than six months can reduce fine wrinkling and other signs of sun damage. Do not treat cosmetic serum directions and prescription directions as interchangeable.14

How to introduce a retinoid serum

  1. 1Test a small amount on a small area of skin before applying the product more widely. Watch for redness or itching over the next few days.
  2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Avoid scrubbing.
  3. 3Follow the product's directions for amount and application area. General facial retinol guidance uses a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the whole face, while keeping it out of the eyes, mouth and nose.
  4. 4Begin every other night, or once every few days if you need a slower introduction. Increase gradually only as your skin tolerates the product.
  5. 5Finish with a facial moisturizer to help with dryness.
  6. 6The next morning, apply broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to exposed skin. Also use shade and clothing for sun protection.
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What should you use alongside it?

Moisturizer and daytime sun protection have clear roles alongside a retinoid. Moisturizer helps counter dryness, and sunscreen helps protect against the sun exposure that accelerates skin aging. Avoid adding several wrinkle products at once: using multiple products for signs of aging tends to irritate skin, which can make those signs more noticeable. If you already use a prescription treatment, follow your dermatologist's application plan rather than replacing it with a general serum routine.234

How long should you wait for results?

Moisturizer can immediately plump the appearance of some fine lines. Retinol takes several weeks to produce visible changes in skin's look and feel, and wrinkle improvement usually takes several months. Judge immediate softness and longer term wrinkle changes separately. Applying extra product will not replace the waiting period; using more than directed can cause unwanted effects.23

Who should be careful?

Do not use retinoids during pregnancy. If you are breastfeeding, discuss retinol with your healthcare provider before use. People with skin allergies, substantial dryness or sensitive skin should discuss alternatives rather than assuming a cosmetic retinoid will suit them. Retinoids can worsen eczema through their drying effect. If your skin is already very red or inflamed, ask a dermatologist about an appropriate treatment before starting.134

Dryness, redness, itching, peeling and burning are possible with retinol. Irritation can also trigger dark marks in darker skin, so introducing the product slowly and using moisturizer matters. Retinoids applied close to the eyes or lips can be irritating; an application area should come from the exact product's directions, not the word serum.134

When should you stop or see a dermatologist?

Stop a cosmetic product that stings or burns. Prescription treatments sometimes have different instructions, so follow the dermatologist managing them. If consistent use over several months has not delivered the improvement you wanted, a dermatologist can discuss prescription options. A higher price does not reliably mean better results, because the checkout total is not a clinical result.23

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Retinoid or retinol?aad.org
  2. 2Wrinkle remediesaad.org
  3. 3Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
  4. 4Topical retinoids (vitamin a creams)dermnetnz.org