Blackheads vs clogged pores: What's the difference?

How can you tell them apart?

A comedone is a pore or hair follicle plugged with sebum, your skin's natural oil, and dead skin cells. Blackheads and whiteheads are both clogged pores, despite the terminology making one blockage sound like two departments. A breakout made mostly of these plugs is called comedonal acne.12

How do blackheads differ from pores?

A pore is an opening through which your skin releases sebum; a blackhead is a plug within that opening. The dark tip is not dirt, so scrubbing harder does not address the blockage. Blackheads and whiteheads usually are not swollen or painful. Tenderness, swelling or pus points toward inflammatory acne rather than just a surface plug.124

What helps clear blackheads and other clogged pores?

• Salicylic acid opens clogged pores and exfoliates the skin. A salicylic acid wash used once daily is an option for blackheads. If the wash dries your skin out, choose a lower strength.
• Topical retinoids clear pores and treat blackheads and whiteheads. Adapalene is available without a prescription in the US and can also prevent new blackheads. Prescription options include tretinoin.
• Azelaic acid helps clear pores and reduce inflammation. It is an option for sensitive skin, although it is less potent than salicylic acid or retinoids for targeting blackheads.

Benzoyl peroxide targets acne causing bacteria rather than directly clearing blackheads. It is more useful when other acne breakouts occur alongside the plugs. Choose treatment for the blemishes you actually have, rather than treating every bump as the same problem.67

How should you build the routine?

1. 1Wash gently morning and night, and after exercise. Do not scrub, and remove makeup before bed.
2. 2Apply your pore clearing treatment as directed. Treatments for comedonal acne generally go in a thin layer across the affected area, not only on individual visible plugs.
3. 3Moisturize with a noncomedogenic product, meaning one designed not to clog pores. Choose the same type of label for makeup and sunscreen.
4. 4Protect exposed skin with broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, especially when using a retinoid.

Retinoids are often applied in the evening. If you already use a prescription retinoid and develop irritation, tell your dermatologist. They can adjust the amount, frequency or moisturizer order; make those changes with their help.5

How long does clearing take?

Acne treatments generally need 6 to 8 weeks before you start seeing fewer breakouts. Comedonal acne can take 8 to 12 weeks to show a difference and many months to clear. Continued treatment helps limit recurring plugs, so an improvement is not necessarily the point to abandon the routine.125

Pore strips lift congestion with adhesive, which gives skincare a small stationery department. Their clearing effect is temporary, and they can cause irritation and dryness. They do not replace treatment aimed at keeping pores clear.6

When should you get help?

Do not squeeze, pick or attempt home extractions. These can damage follicles, cause infection or scarring, and turn plugs into inflamed blemishes. A licensed professional can extract stubborn comedones. See a dermatologist for deep, painful breakouts, uncertainty about the bumps, medication side effects, or little improvement after a few months of consistent care.147