Can I use a face scrub with an exfoliating acid?

Why choose one?

A scrub physically removes dead surface cells using abrasive particles. Exfoliating acids, such as glycolic, lactic and salicylic acid, help dissolve or loosen those cells. The methods differ, but both exfoliate; an acid is not a separate step your skin needs after scrubbing. Exfoliation can improve dullness and surface texture, but it is not a wrinkle eraser with better packaging.34

A gentle chemical exfoliant is usually a better starting choice than an abrasive scrub. Salt and sugar scrubs and exfoliating brushes can irritate facial skin. Exfoliation is optional, even if the bathroom shelf has already voted in favour.35

How should I use the one I choose?

1. 1Start gently. For glycolic acid, test a small amount on one area first and begin with a low concentration.
2. 2For a leave on acid treatment, wash with a gentle cleanser, pat dry, then apply the treatment before moisturizer. Follow the product's directions rather than treating every acid like a rinse off scrub.
3. 3For a scrub, use gentle, small circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Do not press harder to chase a smoother finish.
4. 4Apply moisturizer immediately after exfoliating. In the morning, finish with sunscreen.

Can I alternate them on different days?

Separate days leave room for recovery, but alternating does not make daily exfoliation a good plan. Treat scrub days and acid days as part of the same exfoliation schedule. A conservative general limit is two to three sessions a week at most, with fewer sessions for more aggressive methods.13

If you choose glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night rather than adding scrub sessions between applications. Use broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day and reapply every two hours. Brighter skin or more even pigmentation can take several months of consistent use; adding a scrub is not a reason to shorten that timetable.24

Who should be especially careful?

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find mechanical exfoliation too irritating. Oily, thicker skin can tolerate stronger methods, but that is not a reason to combine them. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark marks after acne, burns or bites, because irritation can increase pigmentation. Never exfoliate sunburned skin or skin with open cuts or wounds.1

Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can already make skin sensitive or cause peeling. Adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts. When starting glycolic acid, keep other exfoliating acids, retinol and vitamin C out of that routine. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, check with your healthcare provider before using glycolic acid, even though low concentrations are generally considered safe.12

When should I stop?

Stop the exfoliating product if your skin becomes irritated, red or chapped, and make an appointment with a dermatologist. Irritant contact dermatitis means inflammation caused by irritation; it can follow harsh rubbing or an acid concentration your skin cannot tolerate.35

If your physical exfoliation is actually dermaplaning rather than a scrub, leave acid and retinol products off for a few days afterward to reduce irritation. Dermaplaning removes dead cells as well as facial hair, so it also counts as exfoliation.7