Can I use hyaluronic acid with AHA and BHA?

What does each ingredient do?

AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, loosen the bonds between surface skin cells so dead cells can shed. Examples include glycolic acid and lactic acid. BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, also remove dead skin but dissolve in oil and work deeper inside pores. Salicylic acid is the most common BHA and helps clear the oil that contributes to blackheads and whiteheads. Hyaluronic acid is neither an AHA nor a BHA. It is a sugar molecule that helps retain water, making hydrated skin look fuller. Lightweight hydration can help prevent overdrying from ingredients used for oily or acne prone skin without adding extra oil.12

How should I use them together?

Use this general approach, with the individual product directions deciding the details.

1. 1Check your existing routine for exfoliating ingredients before adding another product. An acid cleanser, toner and mask can duplicate exfoliation.
2. 2Apply your AHA or BHA as its label directs. Follow any instructions about rinsing, application frequency and warnings rather than treating every acid product alike.
3. 3Follow exfoliation with moisturizer. A moisturizer containing hyaluronic acid is one way to combine hydration and exfoliation without adding another step. If you use a separate hyaluronic acid product, follow its directions too.
4. 4Use SPF 30 or higher sunscreen every day. With AHAs, also wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure during use and for a week after stopping.

How often can I use this combination?

Set the schedule around the exfoliant, not the hyaluronic acid. Exfoliation frequency depends on your skin type and the method; more aggressive exfoliation generally needs to happen less often. For glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night and increase only if your skin tolerates it. AHA strength depends on more than the percentage printed on the bottle. The acid type, concentration, pH and other ingredients all affect how much exfoliation occurs. Adding hydration is not a reason to use a stronger acid or exfoliate more frequently. A manageable routine is easier to keep up, which is a better qualification than looking impressive on a bathroom shelf.234

Who should be careful?

Dry or sensitive skin needs a gentler approach to exfoliation. Hyaluronic acid is usually well tolerated, but strong AHA or BHA products can still irritate sensitive skin. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you develop dark spots after irritation, particularly if you have a darker skin tone. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling. Adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts. Never exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds.124

What if I use an acid mask?

A facial mask is an optional addition to a regular routine, not a promotion to head of skincare. Avoid an exfoliating mask that duplicates acids you already use. Test a new mask on a small area first, follow its stated application time, and moisturize after washing it off. Immediately wash off a mask if you feel itching, burning or stinging. If your skin feels worse after using it, see a dermatologist rather than adding more products.1