AHA or BHA for acne?

What is the difference?

AHAs loosen surface cells and BHAs reach further into pores, while the tidy initials suggest a branding meeting the pores did not attend.2

Which is better for acne, AHA or BHA?

Choose salicylic acid if your acne is mainly whiteheads or blackheads. It has the clearest match to clogged pores. For small red bumps or pus filled pimples, salicylic acid is also an option in an acne wash, though those blemishes can need a different approach. Mild acne often means blackheads, whiteheads or small pimples; large, painful spots deep under the skin or acne that scars call for a dermatologist, because products bought without a prescription are unlikely to treat them effectively.13

Is AHA or BHA better for blackheads?

BHA is the more targeted choice. A blackhead forms when a pore fills with debris but stays open; the dark dot is not dirt. Salicylic acid slows the shedding of cells inside hair follicles and helps break down blackheads and whiteheads. An AHA mainly exfoliates the surface, rather than working as directly on the pore contents.34

How do I use an acne acid?

1. 1Wash gently twice a day. Do not scrub; scrubbing can irritate skin and worsen acne.
2. 2Choose one acne product with one active ingredient, and follow its label. Salicylic acid comes as cleansers, pads, creams, gels, lotions and solutions, giving one ingredient a longer wardrobe than most people.
3. 3If your treatment is applied and left on the skin, use a thin layer over the whole acne prone area rather than dabbing only on visible spots.
4. 4Use the same product consistently for 6 to 8 weeks before deciding whether to add or change an acne treatment.

There is no single schedule for every salicylic acid product because washes and leave on products have different directions. Cleveland Clinic says salicylic acid can be used twice a day by most people, but follow the chosen product's label and do not exceed its recommended applications. Use it at the times the label gives; do not borrow the schedule from a different formula.24

For glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night. Increase use gradually only if your skin is not irritated. Glycolic acid can be strong and irritating; lactic acid is a gentler AHA and is described as a better fit for sensitive skin. Facial acids can increase sun sensitivity, so use sunscreen. With an AHA, protect skin with sunscreen, clothing and less sun exposure while using it and for a week after stopping; daily sunscreen of SPF 30 or higher is advised for the face.26

What if my skin is sensitive?

Start cautiously. Salicylic acid is usually well tolerated, but it can sting, especially on broken skin or at higher concentrations, and it can irritate or burn healthy skin. Do not apply it to skin that is already irritated, infected or red. Test a BHA product on a small area first. Stop using it and contact a doctor if irritation or prolonged stinging occurs.47

Can I use AHA and BHA together?

Do not start both at once. Both acids exfoliate, and too much exfoliation can irritate skin. Dermatologists advise choosing one acne active product and using it as directed for 6 to 8 weeks without adding another acne product during that trial. For topical salicylic acid medicines, avoid using other medicated topical products on the same area, including retinoids or benzoyl peroxide, unless a doctor directs you to.124

How long should I try it?

Acne treatments do not work overnight. If the treatment suits you and you use it consistently, fewer breakouts can appear in 4 to 8 weeks; clearing can take 16 weeks. No single acne treatment works for everyone. If you are not getting the results you want after several weeks, see a dermatologist rather than adding products one after another.1

When should I check with a doctor?

See a dermatologist for large, painful pimples deep under the skin, acne that leaves scars, or dark spots left after acne clears. A doctor or pharmacist can help if acne is not improving with self treatment or if spots are numerous, deep or painful. If you are pregnant or trying to become pregnant, talk to a dermatologist before treating acne yourself. Topical salicylic acid can be absorbed through the skin, so discuss its use with a doctor during pregnancy or breastfeeding. If you already use a prescription retinoid or another medicated cream, ask your doctor before adding salicylic acid to the same area.145