Can I use AHA and BHA together?

What each acid does

AHAs exfoliate the skin's surface by shedding old skin cells. BHAs are oil soluble, reach deeper into pores and help dissolve sebum. Glycolic and lactic acids are common AHAs; salicylic acid is the BHA most commonly used in cosmetics.123

Choose by the job you want done. Salicylic acid is used to unclog pores and can suit blackheads and whiteheads. AHAs are used for surface concerns such as fine lines, texture and tone. Both are not automatically better than one; use both only if the products fit your routine.23

How to use AHA and BHA

A product made with both acids and two separate products are different cases. AHA exfoliation depends on the acid type, concentration, pH and other ingredients in the formula. How often to exfoliate depends on your skin and method; more aggressive exfoliation should be done less often. Follow the product directions and do not exceed the recommended applications.134

Simplicity makes a routine easier to keep up, which gives the skin care aisle a less exciting plot.2

1. 1Wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry.
2. 2Apply the treatment after cleansing. Use leave on AHA preparations at night; follow the label for BHA products and formulas containing both acids.
3. 3Apply moisturizer after exfoliating.
4. 4Use sun protection during the day.

Facial acids take time and need regular use. Stick to the product directions rather than increasing applications to try to speed up results.2

Who should be careful

Sensitive skin can sting or burn after product use. Lactic acid is one of the gentler AHAs, but that does not mean every AHA and BHA combination will suit sensitive skin. If your skin is dry, sensitive or acne prone, a mild chemical exfoliator may be a better fit than adding two acids.24

If you use prescription retinoid creams, retinol or benzoyl peroxide, take care before adding exfoliation. Exfoliating while using these products can worsen dryness or peeling and may even cause acne breakouts.4

Avoid strong exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or tend to get dark spots after a burn, bite or breakout. More aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation, or dark spots, on the skin.4

AHA treatments are described as safe in pregnancy. That statement does not automatically cover BHA or every combination formula, so check the exact product with your prenatal clinician.6

Use sun protection

AHAs can increase sensitivity to ultraviolet light. Use sunscreen, protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using an AHA product and for a week after. Use sun protection with BHA products too.13

When to stop

Do not exfoliate over open cuts, wounds or sunburned skin. If a BHA product causes irritation or prolonged stinging, stop using it and consult a physician.14