AHA BHA exfoliating cleanser: What does it do and how do you use it?

What do AHA and BHA mean?

AHA means alpha hydroxy acid, and BHA means beta hydroxy acid. These are chemical exfoliants: they dissolve dead skin cells rather than removing them with a brush or scrub. Glycolic and lactic acid are common AHAs in cosmetics; salicylic acid is a BHA. Exfoliation is not necessary for everyone, and an unsuitable method can increase redness or breakouts.134

Washing removes oil, dirt, makeup and sunscreen, so the cleanser still has a day job beneath the alphabet. Cleansers use surfactants, ingredients that loosen oil and dirt so water can wash them away. Acids are additions to that cleansing formula, not a replacement for it. The rest of the formula matters too: surfactants, fragrance and preservatives can contribute to irritation.5

Who should consider one?

A salicylic acid acne cleanser is an option for treating pimples and blocked pores. Salicylic acid reduces swelling and redness and loosens pore blockages. AHAs are used in cleansers to smooth skin and reduce changes associated with sun damage. These are ingredient uses, not a reason to expect every AHA BHA wash to produce the same result.25

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find mechanical exfoliation too irritating; mild chemical exfoliation is an alternative if you choose to exfoliate. A formula that also contains abrasive particles combines methods rather than offering chemical exfoliation alone. Avoid strong chemical or mechanical exfoliation if you have darker skin or develop dark marks after irritation, because aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation.1

How do you use an AHA BHA face cleanser?

1. 1Read the label first. Check the amount, frequency and any specific application instructions rather than borrowing directions from another acid cleanser.
2. 2Wet your skin. Apply the cleanser to your hands and lather if the directions call for it.
3. 3Massage gently with small circular movements. General exfoliation guidance suggests about 30 seconds; follow specific product instructions instead when they differ.
4. 4Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, not hot water, and gently pat dry.
5. 5Apply moisturizer immediately afterwards to help keep skin hydrated.

There is no single morning or evening schedule for the whole category. Salicylic acid directions vary by product, and using it less often initially can help limit dryness. Exfoliation frequency also depends on skin type and how aggressive the method is. Washing after exercise does not automatically mean you need another exfoliating session: cleansing frequency and exfoliation frequency are separate decisions.125

What does a specific cleanser label tell you?

For example, NAELI Exfoliator AHA BHA Face Cleanser Gel contains 1% salicylic acid as its acne treatment active, plus glycolic and lactic acid in its inactive ingredient list. That list also includes fragrance and passion fruit seed powders. The AHA percentages are not stated, so the 1% figure describes salicylic acid, not the combined acid content.6

NAELI directs you to wet the area, lather a dime sized amount in your palm, gently massage the face and neck, and rinse well. Its label mentions morning and evening use but also instructs you to start with one application daily because excessive drying can occur. Reduce use to once daily or every other day if bothersome dryness or peeling develops. The label also permits use on the chest and back.6

What results should you expect?

The cleansing step removes surface oil and dirt during washing. Acne improvement from topical salicylic acid can take several weeks or longer for the full benefit. Do not use extra product to speed that up. Acid peels can remove superficial pigment, but treating pigmentation with a peel is different from washing with an acid cleanser. Chemical peels can also worsen melasma, a condition that causes blotchy facial pigmentation.24

Can you use it with retinol or acne treatment?

Check your existing routine before adding acids. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling, and exfoliation can worsen dryness. For topical salicylic acid, do not combine treatment on the same skin with abrasive cleansers, alcohol containing skincare or other topical medicines such as tretinoin or benzoyl peroxide unless your doctor directs it. NAELI also warns that combining topical acne medicines increases dryness and irritation.126

AHA products can increase sensitivity to sunlight and the chance of sunburn. Use sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure while using them and for a week after stopping. Choosing evening use does not remove the need for daytime sun protection.3

Test the cleanser before using it widely

For general skincare testing, apply your normal amount to a quarter sized area under your arm or inside your elbow twice daily for seven to 10 days. For a cleanser, rinse after five minutes or the time its instructions specify. This is a small area test, not advice to leave an acid cleanser on your whole face for five minutes. Medicated salicylic acid has separate first use guidance: test one or two small affected areas for three days, then follow the package if there is no discomfort or reaction.27

When should you stop or get help?

Do not exfoliate sunburned skin, open wounds or cuts. Avoid salicylic acid on broken, red, swollen, irritated or infected skin. If a new product causes a reaction, gently wash it off and stop using it. A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help relieve the reaction; see a dermatologist if it is severe or does not improve. Seek emergency help for breathing difficulty, throat tightness, faintness or swelling of the face, lips or tongue.127

If you are pregnant, planning pregnancy or breastfeeding, discuss topical salicylic acid with your healthcare professional before use. Tell them about your medicines and any salicylic acid allergy. Keep the cleanser out of your eyes, nose and mouth; rinse accidental exposure with water for 15 minutes.2

Choose by the formula, not the price

Cleanser prices vary widely, and expensive and inexpensive products can have similar ingredients, so the receipt is not a skin assessment. For acne, look for products labelled oil free and noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores. If fragrance has caused a reaction, choose fragrance free rather than relying on an unscented claim; botanical ingredients can still contain fragrance related substances.57