SOME BY MI AHA BHA PHA: What it does and how to use it

What is in the toner?

The listed acids are citric acid at 500 ppm, salicylic acid at 100 ppm and lactobionic acid at 100 ppm. Those amounts equal 0.05%, 0.01% and 0.01%, respectively. The formula also lists glycerin, niacinamide, tea tree leaf water, sodium hyaluronate, allantoin, witch hazel extract and peppermint oil.1

Acid percentages are only part of the strength question. The formula's pH and the base carrying the acids also affect their activity and tolerability. A lower pH makes an AHA more active but also increases its potential to irritate. Do not choose an exfoliant simply by counting the acid names on the bottle.23

How do AHA, BHA and PHA compare?

How do PHA and BHA compare?

Choose by the problem you want to address. Salicylic acid is the more targeted choice for oily, congested pores because it is fat soluble. PHA is the gentler surface exfoliation option. Technically, salicylic acid is not a beta hydroxy acid, although skincare labels routinely put it in the BHA category. Its useful distinction is its ability to work in an oily environment, not the chemistry abbreviation.3

How do PHA and AHA compare?

PHA provides effects similar to AHA with fewer irritation responses. AHA is also a broad category: glycolic acid, lactic acid and citric acid belong to it, but they are not interchangeable formulas. Glycolic and lactic acids are commonly used to improve the appearance of ageing skin. Lactobionic acid, the toner's PHA, belongs to the gentler poly hydroxy and bionic acid group.34

How should you use the toner?

1. 1Cleanse your face before applying the toner.
2. 2Thoroughly soak a cotton pad. SOME BY MI tells you to wipe gently along the skin's texture, then lightly pat to help absorption.
3. 3Begin with two to three evenings per week. This is general guidance for introducing exfoliating acids, not a frequency printed in the toner's directions. Increase only as tolerated.
4. 4Use broad spectrum SPF 30 or higher every morning.

Evening use is a practical starting point because leave on AHA preparations are generally applied at night. Moving exfoliation to bedtime does not remove the need for daytime sun protection.4

Can you use it with retinol or acne treatments?

Alternate evenings when introducing exfoliating acids alongside retinol. Avoid combining strong AHA or BHA products with retinol or benzoyl peroxide in the same routine until your skin is accustomed to them. If you use a prescription acne treatment, ask your prescriber how an acid toner fits that regimen rather than changing the treatment to accommodate the toner.25

What results should you expect?

Exfoliating acids can improve the appearance of rough texture, uneven colour and signs of sun damage with regular use. Judge progress by those changes rather than letting the word 'Miracle' set the performance review. There is no reliable toner specific timetable for clearing acne here, so do not treat 30 days as a treatment deadline.35

Professional AHA peels can retexture skin over a few months, but their strengths and application methods differ substantially from a cosmetic toner. Neither a peel's results nor its schedule should become your expectation for this bottle. A cosmetic toner also should not replace an acne treatment plan just because its name includes a countdown.45

Who should be careful, and when should you stop?

SOME BY MI labels the toner suitable for all skin types. Sensitive skin still calls for gradual introduction. Persistent burning, redness or peeling means you should scale back exfoliation, not increase it. During pregnancy or breastfeeding, check with your healthcare provider before introducing this mixed acid toner; general guidance that an AHA is suitable in pregnancy is not approval of every complete formula.12

Avoid wounded or injured areas. Stop using the toner and consult a specialist for red spots, swelling or itching during or after use. Do not use it on children aged three or younger. SOME BY MI recommends using it within 12 months of opening and storing it away from direct sunlight.1