Cica or ceramides for skin barrier repair?

Which is better for the skin barrier, cica or ceramides?

Ceramides have a direct role in the barrier. The stratum corneum, your outermost skin layer, contains skin cells surrounded by fats, including ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids. Those fats help maintain water balance and the structure that keeps the barrier working.2

A useful barrier moisturizer does more than supply ceramides. Glycerin and hyaluronic acid attract water, while ingredients such as dimethicone and petrolatum reduce water loss. The combination matters more than choosing one ingredient in isolation. Choose by the whole formula and texture, not the largest word on the jar, which has never had to apply the contents.34

Choose the texture your skin needs

For dry skin, start with a cream or ointment rather than a thin lotion. Creams are thicker and preserve more water than lotions; ointments are thicker still. For oily skin that needs moisturizer, a lighter gel is an option. With combination skin, concentrate moisturizer on the dry areas rather than automatically covering oily areas.5

A cream can be practical during the day because it absorbs quickly and is less greasy. An ointment can suit very dry skin at night, but should not be used on weeping eczema. A cream you will actually use is more useful than an ointment left unopened, however impressive its career on the bathroom shelf.36

How to use a ceramide moisturizer

1. 1Wash your hands before applying moisturizer. If the product comes in a tub, use a clean spoon or spatula rather than putting your fingers inside.
2. 2Apply after washing your face or bathing, while the skin is still damp. Aim to apply within three minutes.
3. 3Smooth a thin, shiny layer over dry areas, following the direction of hair growth rather than rubbing vigorously.
4. 4Use morning and evening, and reapply when skin feels dry or tight. Emollient care for dry skin can require three or four applications a day.

Are ceramides or cica better for irritated skin?

A ceramide moisturizer is a sensible starting point when irritation accompanies dryness, but the rest of the formula still matters. Choose a fragrance free cleanser and moisturizer. Avoid exfoliating dry, peeling skin, and avoid products containing alcohol or alpha hydroxy acid while addressing dryness. A botanical or "natural" label does not mean a product is less likely to cause an allergic reaction.5

What should you expect, and when do you need help?

The aim is better hydration and restoration of the outer skin layer, not simply a temporary coating. Excessively dry skin can also need treatment for an underlying condition; moisturizer alone does not address every cause. There is no clear recovery timetable for choosing between cica and ceramides.4

If a moisturizer causes irritation, seek advice about changing it. See a dermatologist if dryness does not improve or becomes painful, cracked, bleeding or very irritating. If you use a topical steroid, leave 30 minutes between it and the emollient, and ask which to apply first. Keep emollients and fabrics containing their residue away from flames and cigarettes.567