Cleansing balm for oily skin: should you use one?

How does a cleansing balm work?

An oil based cleanser helps loosen makeup, sunscreen and excess sebum, the oil your skin produces. A cleansing balm is one form of makeup remover; some formulas, such as BYOMA Melting Balm Cleanser, change from a solid texture into an oil as you massage them onto skin.13

Cleansers also use surfactants, ingredients that help lift dirt and wash it away. One part attaches to oil and dirt, while another works with water. This is why the whole cleanser matters more than simply spotting an oil in the ingredient list: the formula also determines how easily the product rinses off.4

Do you actually need a balm?

Consider a balm when waterproof makeup or water resistant sunscreen is difficult to remove with your usual cleanser. Most people can clean their face adequately with one thorough, gentle wash. A balm is an optional makeup removal step, not an entrance fee for having an evening routine.1

• If a gentle cleanser removes what you wear, stick with that single cleanse.
• If stubborn makeup remains, use a makeup remover before your cleanser.
• If you want an alternative to an oil based first cleanse, use micellar water to remove makeup, then wash with a water based cleanser.

How to use a cleansing balm on oily skin

Use the balm before your water based cleanser in the evening when you need makeup removal. Double cleansing uses two different cleansers, not two rounds with the same one, despite the name doing very little of the explaining.5

1. 1Follow your balm's directions for the amount and whether to apply it to dry skin. BYOMA tells you to massage a pea sized amount onto dry skin in gentle circular motions.
2. 2Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. BYOMA tells you to add a splash of warm water first to emulsify the balm, meaning help it mix with water for rinsing.
3. 3Leave your face damp and gently massage in a water based cleanser. A mild foaming wash is a suitable starting point for oily skin.
4. 4Rinse the second cleanser away and pat dry with a soft towel rather than rubbing.
5. 5Apply moisturizer after cleansing to keep your skin hydrated.

How often should you use it?

Keep the extra makeup removal step for evenings that need it rather than automatically double cleansing morning and night. Wash your face up to twice daily and after sweating, without scrubbing. Remove makeup before bed. A harsh cleanser can irritate oily skin and trigger increased oil production, so a tighter, drier feeling is not a reason to wash more aggressively.26

What results should you expect?

Judge a balm by whether the cleansing session removes makeup and sunscreen, not by a promise to switch off oily skin. Oiliness comes from glands producing large amounts of oil, and genes and hormones play a key role. A balm removes material from the skin's surface; it is not a treatment to limit oil production. A healthcare provider can recommend treatments for that when needed.47

What is the best cleansing balm for oily skin?

Choose a balm for makeup removal rather than making it your default oily skin wash. Look for a noncomedogenic label, meaning formulated not to clog pores, and avoid harsh, excessively drying or fragranced cleansers. For your everyday cleanser, look for an oil free, gentle foaming formula.124

BYOMA Melting Balm Cleanser is one example with a noncomedogenic label and explicit directions to follow with a second cleanser. Its formula includes olive and grape seed oils, niacinamide and Ceramide NP, plus rosemary leaf oil. Choose it only if those ingredients suit your preferences and known sensitivities; a noncomedogenic label cannot promise that you will never break out.13

Who should be careful?

If you are prone to acne, be cautious with an oil based balm, particularly as your only cleanser. If your skin is sensitive, introduce just one new product at a time. Try a pea sized dot behind your ear along your jawline and wait a day or two before using the product across your face.15

Salicylic acid, glycolic acid and benzoyl peroxide are options in cleansers for oily, acne prone skin, but the second cleanse does not have to contain an acne treatment. Use acne cleansers cautiously if you already use acne products that stay on your skin, including prescribed creams: too much treatment can cause excessive dryness and irritation.14

When should you stop or get help?

Stop using an irritating product rather than adding more cleansing to compensate. Redness, dryness, chafing and stinging can occur with cleansers, and excessive washing can damage the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps retain moisture. Speak with a dermatologist if you are struggling with blackheads, acne or excessive oil production, and seek medical advice for unusual skin symptoms.456