Do you need an exfoliating toner?

Is exfoliating toner necessary?

Exfoliation removes dead cells from the skin's outer layer. Chemical exfoliators use acids to loosen those cells rather than physically scrubbing them away. A toner is one way to apply those ingredients, not a separate requirement. Salicylic acid also comes in cleansers and other treatments, so the ingredient does not require its own watery department. If you already use retinol, a prescription retinoid or benzoyl peroxide, adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.13

Who should use exfoliating toner?

• For blackheads, whiteheads or clogged pores, salicylic acid is a useful option. It is a beta hydroxy acid, or BHA, that dissolves in oil and helps remove oil inside pores.
• For rough surface texture, alpha hydroxy acids, or AHAs, loosen the bonds between surface skin cells. Glycolic and lactic acid are common examples; lactic acid is one of the gentler AHAs.
• For dry or sensitive skin, choose mild exfoliation if you choose any. Stronger does not mean more suitable.
• For darker skin tones, or skin that develops dark marks after irritation, avoid aggressive exfoliation because it can increase pigmentation.

If you have rosacea, skip exfoliation and toner. Avoid glycolic and lactic acid, and focus on gentle cleansing and a suitable moisturizer instead.4

Can you use a hydrating toner instead?

Yes, if your aim is extra hydration rather than exfoliation. Look for hydrating ingredients such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid. A hydrating toner can add moisture without serving as an exfoliating step, despite sharing the same job title on the bottle. Check the ingredients rather than assuming every toner does the same thing. For sensitive skin, avoid heavily fragranced formulas. If you have acne, avoid very drying toners.25

How do you add an exfoliating toner?

1. 1Read the product directions first. For a new salicylic acid treatment, apply a small amount to one or two small treatment areas for three days before wider use.
2. 2Cleanse, then gently apply the toner as directed. A toner intended to stay on does not need rinsing; do not treat it like a wash off peel.
3. 3Start slowly. For glycolic acid, begin once or twice a week at night, increasing only if your skin tolerates it. Other acid toners need a schedule suited to their formula and your skin.
4. 4Follow with moisturizer. Use sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher every day, because facial acids can increase susceptibility to sun damage.

How long does it take to work?

Visible toner effects usually take six weeks to three months and can be subtle. Acid toners can smooth texture and make pores look smaller, but they do not permanently shrink genetically determined pore size. More frequent application is not a shortcut: aggressive exfoliation needs less frequent use.12

When should you stop or get advice?

Do not exfoliate sunburned skin or open wounds. Reduce salicylic acid use if dryness or irritation develops; contact a doctor if irritation or stinging is severe or persistent. Stop salicylic acid and get emergency help for breathing difficulty, throat tightness or facial swelling. Do not combine a salicylic acid treatment with benzoyl peroxide or tretinoin on the same skin unless your doctor directs you to.16

Glycolic acid is considered safe in pregnancy. Before using topical salicylic acid, tell your doctor if you are pregnant, planning pregnancy or breastfeeding.67

For acne that worsens, becomes painful, causes scars or does not improve after several months of self care and pharmacy treatments, see a doctor rather than adding more toner.5