Does niacinamide serum help active acne?

What does niacinamide actually help with?

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. Applied to the skin, it can relieve symptoms of inflammatory acne. Acne involves several processes, including blocked pores, excess sebum, meaning skin oil, bacteria and inflammation. Reducing oil addresses part of the problem, but acne care also needs to match the types of breakouts you have.34

There are encouraging results for mild to moderate acne. In a controlled trial involving 76 people with moderate acne, a 4% niacinamide gel performed as well as a 1% clindamycin antibiotic gel. Niacinamide also helps the skin barrier retain water, which supports hydration. These are useful reasons to consider the ingredient, particularly if oiliness is part of your concern.1

Adding 5% niacinamide to 2.5% benzoyl peroxide for 12 weeks improved the reduction in blackheads and whiteheads compared with benzoyl peroxide alone. Oil levels also fell faster. However, the extra niacinamide did not produce a significantly greater reduction in inflamed pimples. Treat niacinamide as a supporting product, even if the packaging has cast it as the lead.5

What strength should you look for?

The relevant tested formulas include a 2% moisturiser for oil reduction, a 4% gel for acne, and 5% niacinamide used with benzoyl peroxide. A cosmetic serum is a different formula from a treatment gel or cream, so use its own directions rather than borrowing another product's schedule. Niacinamide is generally well tolerated and can often suit people who cannot tolerate topical retinoids or fruit acids.15

How do you fit a serum into acne care?

Look for gentle skincare labelled noncomedogenic, meaning designed not to clog pores, and avoid irritating toners or exfoliants. Choose a gentle formula rather than the most ambitious paragraph on the box.67

1. 1Wash gently with a cleanser and your fingertips. Wash up to twice daily and after sweating; do not scrub.
2. 2Apply your niacinamide serum as directed on its label. There is no single morning or evening schedule for every serum.
3. 3Use acne treatment suited to your breakouts. Benzoyl peroxide is an option to discuss with a pharmacist; adapalene can unclog pores and prevent new blackheads.
4. 4When outdoors, apply broad spectrum, water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher to exposed skin. Choose one labelled noncomedogenic or "won't clog pores".

How long does it take?

A 2% niacinamide moisturiser reduced oil production over 4 to 6 weeks. Acne treatment generally needs 6 to 8 weeks before improvement becomes visible, and fuller changes can take several weeks to a few months. Repeatedly switching treatments can irritate skin and cause breakouts. The benzoyl peroxide combination results above were assessed at 12 weeks, not after a few applications.1257

Do not count on the benzoyl peroxide and niacinamide combination to clear leftover red or dark marks better than benzoyl peroxide alone: neither outcome differed significantly between the treatments. Avoid picking or squeezing pimples, which increases the risk of scarring and dark marks.57

When should you reduce use or get help?

If twice daily niacinamide gel causes excessive dryness, reduce application to once daily or every other day. Do not keep pushing an irritating routine: irritation can cause more breakouts.12

See a doctor if self treatment is not helping, you have many spots, or breakouts are deep, painful or causing scars. Get medical advice for hot, swollen, red skin that could indicate infection, or if acne is affecting your mental health. Deep acne needs treatment addressing blocked pores, bacteria, inflammation and excess oil, not simply another serum.26