What is niacinamide serum used for?
For dry or easily irritated skin, niacinamide supports the barrier that limits water loss. It can increase the skin's production of ceramides, natural fats that help protect skin and retain moisture. Niacinamide moisturizers have also improved barrier function in people with rosacea, reducing their reaction to irritants such as cleansers and cosmetics. These are reasons to consider niacinamide for hydration and comfort, rather than treating it only as an ingredient for oily skin.2
For oily or acne prone skin, niacinamide can reduce sebum, the oil responsible for facial shine, and ease inflammation. A trial involving 76 people with moderate acne found a 4% nicotinamide gel as effective as a 1% clindamycin gel. That result applies to the tested gel, not every cosmetic serum, and is not a reason to replace prescribed acne treatment.2
For visible pores, the realistic goal is a less noticeable appearance. Niacinamide may help by keeping skin smoother and clearer, but nothing has been proven to reduce the actual size of pores.3
For dark spots and signs of aging, topical niacinamide can improve uneven pigmentation and the appearance of fine lines. Clinical trials have found benefits from niacinamide used alone and in formulas containing other active ingredients. Niacinamide has been used in cosmetic skincare for decades, so its recent popularity is a comeback without the retirement.4
How does niacinamide work?
Niacinamide helps skin cells make NAD, a molecule involved in energy production and cellular stress responses. Its effects also involve inflammation, pigmentation and the structures that support skin. The exact mechanisms behind its cosmetic benefits are not fully settled. The useful distinction is between visible benefits found in clinical trials and a promise to reverse every change associated with aging.45
What strength should you choose?
Start with a low concentration if your skin is sensitive. Most skincare products contain 5% niacinamide or less, although amounts vary. Concentrations of 2% to 5% have been used in clinical research, with different formulas tested for different goals.3
| Concentration and formula | What was found |
|---|---|
| 2% moisturizer | Reduced facial oil production and shine over 4 to 6 weeks. |
| 4% acne gel | Improved moderate acne in a controlled trial. |
| 4% cosmetic formula | Improved eyelid wrinkles after eight weeks. |
| 5% topical formula | Improved fine lines, pigmentation, texture and red blotchiness during a 12 week trial. |
How do you use niacinamide serum?
- 1Test a small amount on your forearm and wait 24 hours, especially if you are concerned about reactions.
- 2Cleanse gently before applying your skincare.
- 3Apply moisturizer, then niacinamide. Another option is to combine the niacinamide serum with moisturizer and apply them together to your face and neck.
- 4Begin slowly. Niacinamide can generally be used once or twice daily, allowing a morning or evening application.
Can you use it with other ingredients?
Niacinamide can be paired with vitamin C, retinol, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid and moisturizers containing ceramides. Avoid using too many products containing niacinamide at once. Niacinamide appears in cleansers, moisturizers and sunscreens as well as serums, so the dropper does not have exclusive distribution rights.3
How long does it take to work?
Think in weeks rather than expecting an immediate change. Oil reduction was measured over 4 to 6 weeks, while improvements in wrinkles and other signs of aging were assessed over eight to twelve weeks. Use those as reference points for the relevant formulas, not a fixed deadline for every niacinamide serum.2
What side effects should you watch for?
Niacinamide is generally gentle, but rare reactions include itching, redness, mild burning and allergy. Stop using a serum that causes these symptoms. If a niacinamide acne gel causes excessive dryness with twice daily use, reduce application to once daily or every other day. Niacinamide is often tolerated by people who cannot tolerate topical retinoids or fruit acids.23
Does niacinamide replace sunscreen?
No. Niacinamide does not work as sunscreen or prevent sunburn. Its role in helping skin respond to UV damage does not replace daily sunscreen for protection against premature skin aging and skin cancer. Niacinamide serum and oral vitamin B3 supplements are also different uses of the vitamin; supplement doses are not instructions for skincare.26
Where this answer comes from
- 1Niacinamide: a review on dermal delivery strategies and clinical evidencepubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 2Nicotinamidedermnetnz.org
- 3Niacinamide: What It Is and Skin Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 4Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentationpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 5Mechanistic Insights into the Multiple Functions of Niacinamide: Therapeutic Implications and Cosmeceutical Applications in Functional Skincare Productspmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 6Niacin (Vitamin B3): Uses, Benefits, Sources & Side Effectshealth.clevelandclinic.org