What does slugging actually do?

Petroleum jelly is an occlusive: it forms a protective coating that slows water evaporation from the skin. It holds onto existing moisture rather than adding water. A moisturizer containing humectants, ingredients that attract and hold water, does a different job. Examples include glycerin and hyaluronic acid. Applying moisturizer before the coating combines those jobs. The aim is to keep water in the skin, not to win a contest for the glossiest bedtime routine.2

Keeping moisture in helps skin stay softer and more flexible. The skin barrier is the outermost protective layer; when damaged, it loses more water and becomes more sensitive to irritants. Petroleum based barrier products reduce that water loss. Slugging is especially useful during dry winter weather and less necessary in warm, humid months.134

What should you use?

Use pure petroleum jelly or a petroleum jelly product with few additional ingredients. Slugging needs no dedicated product range, despite having a name that sounds ready for one. For sensitive skin, choose a formula with few ingredients and avoid fragrance. Try only one new product at a time so a reaction is easier to trace.125

How to slug your face

  1. 1Cleanse your face in the evening with a gentle cleanser.
  2. 2Apply moisturizer while your skin is still damp. Petroleum jelly works best on damp skin, rather than as a coating over dry skin.
  3. 3Apply a small amount of petroleum jelly last. You can cover only dry areas, including lips or eyelids, rather than your whole face.
  4. 4Wait about 30 minutes before bed. Protect your pillowcase with a towel if needed, then leave the coating on overnight.
  5. 5Wash your face in the morning to remove the coating and anything that has stuck to it.
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How often, and how quickly does it work?

Use slugging when your skin feels dry rather than making it an automatic nightly habit. A couple of nights in a row can be useful; nightly facial slugging is rarely necessary. Moisturizers generally have their greatest therapeutic effects during the first six hours after application. That describes moisturizing effects, not a fixed deadline for repairing your skin barrier.13

Who should skip it?

Skip facial slugging if your skin is oily or acne prone: occlusive products can worsen breakouts. Do not slug over infected skin or open wounds. Avoid layering petroleum jelly over retinoids, alpha hydroxy acids or beta hydroxy acids, because trapping them underneath can increase irritation. If you use prescription creams, follow your prescriber's directions for layering rather than adding slugging on your own.125

Stop using a product if it causes an allergic rash. Seek medical advice for redness, irritation, itchiness or a rash after using it. Occlusive moisturizers can also aggravate folliculitis, inflammation around hair follicles. Keep clothing and bedding carrying paraffin containing ointment away from cigarettes and naked flames because of the risk of burns.23

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Slugging: Does This Skin Care Trend Work?health.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Emollients: Creams, Soaps, Moisturizers, Ointments, Benefitsmy.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Emollients and Moisturizers (Moisturisers)dermnetnz.org
  4. 4Barrier creamdermnetnz.org
  5. 55 ways to use petroleum jelly for skin careaad.org