What does witch hazel actually do?
Witch hazel comes from the plant Hamamelis virginiana and is a botanical astringent. Astringency is a narrower job than the word "tone" tends to acquire on a skincare bottle. Treat tightening, hydration and changes in skin colour as separate goals rather than interchangeable meanings of better skin.1
Witch hazel extracts also have anti inflammatory activity, meaning they can reduce inflammation. Research on the plant includes laboratory work, animal studies and limited clinical trials. There is clinical support for certain uses involving inflammation, but a facial toner is not automatically a treatment for every concern involving redness.23
What results should you expect?
Keep the goal modest: an astringent effect, rather than a timetable for fading marks, lifting skin or clearing acne. There is no reliable number of days or weeks to give for those cosmetic changes with witch hazel. Evidence for natural remedies as acne treatments remains insufficient, so witch hazel should not replace an acne treatment you have been prescribed.4
How should you use it?
Use the directions for the exact product you own, including where to apply it and how often. Facial skincare and medicated witch hazel pads are different products: do not borrow a medicated wipe's application frequency for your face. There is no universal morning or evening schedule, concentration or application amount for all witch hazel products.15
If your goal is softer, less dry skin, use a moisturizer rather than relying on astringency. Emollients are moisturizing ingredients that soften skin; moisturizing formulas can also attract water and help prevent moisture loss. Astringency and hydration are different jobs, even if a skincare bottle would prefer one very impressive job title. When using prescription creams, follow your clinician's layering instructions; some medicines need to go on before an emollient.6
Who should be careful?
If you have rosacea, skip witch hazel toners and other astringents. Rosacea makes skin easily irritated, and avoiding toners is part of caring for it. Choose gentle, fragrance free products instead, and avoid alcohol. Test new skincare before applying it across your face, especially if products often sting.7
For medicated witch hazel wipes, tell your care team about any previous allergic reaction to witch hazel and whether you are pregnant, trying to become pregnant or breastfeeding. Ask before combining those wipes with other skin products on the same area. These are precautions for the medication, not a blanket safety verdict for every cosmetic containing witch hazel.1
What if the toner also contains acids?
An exfoliating toner has another job. Alpha hydroxy acids, including glycolic and lactic acid, cause shedding of surface skin; the effect depends on the acid, concentration, acidity and other ingredients. Do not attribute that exfoliation to witch hazel. These acids can increase sun sensitivity, so use sunscreen, wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure during use and for a week afterwards. Follow the product's warnings.5
When should you stop?
Stop using a witch hazel product if irritation, redness or dryness develops. Get medical advice if symptoms persist or worsen. Seek prompt medical help for a suspected allergic reaction, including hives or swelling of the face, lips, tongue or throat.1
Where this answer comes from
- 1Witch Hazel: How to Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
- 2Hamamelis virginiana L. in Skin Care: A Review of Its Pharmacological Properties and Cosmetological Applicationspubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 3Botanicals With Dermatologic Properties Derived From First Nations Healing: Part 2-Plants and Algaepubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 4Complementary and alternative medicine treatments for common skin diseases: A systematic review and meta-analysispmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 5Alpha Hydroxy Acidsfda.gov
- 6Emollients: Creams, Soaps, Moisturizers, Ointments, Benefitsmy.clevelandclinic.org
- 77 rosacea skin care tips dermatologists recommendaad.org