Face scrub brushes: what they do and how to use them

What does a face scrub brush actually do?

Using a brush to remove surface cells is called mechanical exfoliation. Chemical exfoliation uses acids to dissolve dead cells instead. A brush is an optional exfoliation tool, not a promotion your cleanser has been waiting for.1

Your skin's outermost layer, called the stratum corneum, contains dead cells arranged within a supporting structure. This layer helps control water loss and the passage of substances into your skin. The outer layer contains dead cells with a real job, which is awkward for anything sold on removing them. Your skin also forms a barrier against mechanical, chemical and microbial harm. Removing surface cells is not the same goal as removing as much of that protective layer as possible.2

Do you need a brush to get your face clean?

Cleansers contain surfactants, ingredients that help break up impurities so water can wash them away. Water alone cannot adequately remove many substances on the skin because they do not dissolve in water. The cleanser matters as well as the tool: harsh alkaline soaps can disturb the skin's protective proteins and fats. Synthetic detergent cleansers, also called syndets, can clean while better preserving skin structure and function. The aim is to remove unwanted material without unnecessarily stripping protective surface components.3

Who should be careful with a face brush?

Oily, thicker skin can be more suited to mechanical exfoliation. Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find it too irritating. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark spots after acne, burns or insect bites: it can increase pigmentation. Retinol, prescription retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or prone to peeling, so adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.1

How to use a face scrub brush gently

1. 1Check your skin first. Do not exfoliate open cuts, wounds or sunburn.
2. 2Use short, light strokes with the brush rather than forceful scrubbing.
3. 3Rinse with lukewarm water, not hot water.
4. 4Apply moisturizer immediately afterward because exfoliation can be drying.

How often should you use it?

There is no single exfoliation schedule for every skin type and method. More aggressive exfoliation needs to be less frequent. Redness and irritation are reasons to stop, not increase pressure. Ask a dermatologist if you are unsure whether exfoliation suits your skin.14

Can a face brush help with acne?

Scrubbing can irritate acne and cause it to flare. For skin with acne, use a mild cleanser labelled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores. Apply it lightly with your fingertips in circular motions, rinse gently with warm water using your fingers, then pat dry with a clean towel. Wash when you wake up, before bed and after sweating; repeated washing throughout the day can cause more irritation and breakouts. If your skin feels dry, apply a moisturizer made for acne prone skin after washing, twice a day.5

Treat acne with acne medication rather than more scrubbing. Acne treatments usually need 6 to 8 weeks to show some improvement, and complete clearing generally takes 3 to 4 months. Those are treatment timelines, not a countdown for a brush to clear your skin. See a dermatologist for deep or painful acne, or acne that continues despite appropriate care and treatment.5

Can you use a body dry brush on your face?

Do not use a body dry brush on your face. Facial skin is more sensitive than skin elsewhere, and stiff body brushes are not the right substitute for gentle facial methods. Body dry brushing and facial exfoliation are different practices; a body brushing schedule should not become your face brushing schedule. Removing dead cells can make skin feel smoother and softer and look temporarily brighter, but that temporary effect is not a reason to keep brushing. Stop brushing immediately if redness, swelling or inflammation develops, and do not brush irritated, infected or broken skin.4