Face scrub products: how to choose and use them

What does a face scrub actually do?

Exfoliation means removing dead cells from the outer layer of skin. A face scrub physically removes dead surface cells, so the job description is shorter than the shopping category. Chemical exfoliants use ingredients such as alpha and beta hydroxy acids to dissolve dead cells instead. Neither method suits every skin type, and exfoliation is optional.12

Which type should you choose?

Avoid salt scrubs, sugar scrubs, charcoal products and specialized exfoliating brushes or tools, which can irritate skin. A chemical exfoliant containing glycolic acid is an alternative for removing dead cells and evening skin tone. That is not a reason to choose a strong acid for sensitive skin.13

Favor gentle products with fewer ingredients, avoid heavily fragranced formulas and test a new product before broader use. Introduce fewer new products at once rather than replacing your whole routine. If irritation develops, stop the product and arrange a dermatologist appointment.3

How do you use a face scrub?

1. 1Check your skin first. Do not exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds.
2. 2Wet your face and apply the scrub gently.
3. 3Massage with small circular motions for about 30 seconds.
4. 4Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, not hot water.
5. 5Apply moisturizer immediately afterward because exfoliation can be drying.

Use a cleanser, an exfoliant or an exfoliating cleanser as the first step rather than using both a cleanser and an exfoliant. Using a cleanser and an exfoliant as separate first steps adds products rather than a second first step. In the morning, sunscreen goes last, after moisturizer; at night, sunscreen is unnecessary.3

How often should you exfoliate?

There is no single scrub schedule for every face. Frequency depends on your skin and the method; more aggressive exfoliation needs to happen less often. Excessive exfoliation can leave skin red and irritated. Glycolic acid exfoliation a couple of times a week is an alternative approach, not a schedule to copy onto every scrub.23

Who should be especially careful?

Avoid strong mechanical or chemical exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark spots after burns, insect bites or breakouts. Aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation, meaning darker patches. Retinol, prescription retinoids and benzoyl peroxide can make skin sensitive or cause peeling; adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts.12

Should you use a scrub for acne or blackheads?

Do not scrub acne: friction can irritate skin and make acne worse. Blackheads are a type of acne, not simply dirt that needs more vigorous washing. They form when oil and dead skin cells plug pores. For acne, wash with a gentle cleanser twice daily and speak to a pharmacist about treatments such as salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide.56

Benzoyl peroxide is an acne medicine that reduces bacteria and helps with spots and blocked pores. It comes as a gel left on skin or a wash rinsed off, rather than a friction based scrub. Use the lowest strength initially and follow its own packet directions. Only combine benzoyl peroxide with other acne treatments when a doctor or pharmacist has approved the combination.7

Acne treatment needs time rather than harder scrubbing. Benzoyl peroxide usually starts working within four weeks; most acne treatments take two to four months to reach their full effect. Speak to a pharmacist or doctor if acne worsens or has not improved after 12 weeks of benzoyl peroxide.67

What about the small dots on your nose?

Small, flat, lighter dots can be sebaceous filaments: structures that help carry oil to the skin surface. Sebaceous filaments are normal parts of skin, not a cleaning assignment disguised as dots. Unlike blackheads, they have no plug and are not acne. They are often gray, light brown or yellow rather than dark, raised bumps.4

A skincare routine that includes exfoliation can make sebaceous filaments less noticeable, but cannot eliminate them. Salicylic acid dissolves dead cells to help prevent clogged follicles, and retinoids also help prevent clogged pores. Avoid squeezing filaments: pressure can damage skin, and removed oil fills the pores again within 30 days.4

When should you get medical help?

See a doctor if acne is not improving with treatment, involves many spots, causes deep painful lumps or leaves scars. Hot, swollen skin can signal infection; redness can be harder to see on brown or black skin. Acne affecting your mental health is also a reason to seek help rather than change scrubs.5