Face exfoliating scrub: how to choose and use one

What does a face scrub actually do?

Exfoliation removes dead cells from the skin's surface. In a professional facial, exfoliation is a separate stage from cleansing, applying a mask and moisturizing. A scrub performs the exfoliation part; it is not the entire facial squeezed into a tube.2

Scrubs, brushes and sponges use mechanical exfoliation: physical action removes cells. Chemical exfoliants use acids to dissolve dead cells instead. Neither method suits every skin type.1

Is a scrub right for your skin?

Retinol, prescription retinoid creams and benzoyl peroxide can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling. Adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or trigger breakouts. Review your existing routine before adding a scrub.1

How to use a face exfoliating scrub

1. 1Check your skin first. Do not exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds.
2. 2Apply the scrub gently in small circles for about 30 seconds.
3. 3Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water, not hot water.
4. 4Apply moisturizer immediately afterward.

How often should you use it?

Frequency depends on your skin type and the exfoliation method. More aggressive exfoliation needs less frequent use. Do not keep increasing use if your skin becomes red or irritated.1

Does a scrub replace face washing?

Use a gentle, nonabrasive cleanser without alcohol for regular face washing. Daily face washing and exfoliation are different jobs, even if the word "scrub" sounds more industrious. Scrubbing during cleansing irritates skin, so use your fingertips rather than treating every wash as an exfoliation session.3

Wet your face with lukewarm water, apply cleanser with your fingertips, rinse and pat dry with a soft towel. Wash once in the morning and once at night, and after heavy sweating. Those washing times are not a schedule for using a scrub. Washcloths and mesh sponges can irritate skin during cleansing. Be gentle around your eyes when applying moisturizer so you do not pull on the delicate skin.3

What should make you stop?

Stop scrubbing if your skin becomes irritated, tender, itchy or increasingly flaky, or if skincare products start stinging. These symptoms can accompany damage to your skin barrier, the outer layer that keeps water in and helps keep harmful substances and bacteria out. Overexfoliation and scrubbing can damage that protective layer.4

Shift the focus to gentle care: use warm rather than hot water, a mild soap free and fragrance free cleanser, and moisturizer. Ceramides and other lipids, meaning fats, help replenish components of the skin barrier. Avoid prolonged cleanser massage; longer rubbing can break down the barrier's fatty layer rather than improve cleansing.4

Repairing a damaged barrier takes patience. Benefits from changes to products and habits typically begin to show after three to four months. That is a recovery timeline, not a reason to continue an irritating scrub. Skin also replaces its barrier less quickly with age, making hydration and gentler care increasingly important.4

If a skin condition such as eczema or rosacea is contributing to barrier damage, work with a dermatologist on care suited to that condition. A scrub should not become your way of trying to remove persistent irritation.4

What belongs in the rest of the routine?

Cleansing, moisturizing and protection are the foundations of skincare. Daily sunscreen matters because sun damage comes from ordinary everyday exposure, not just holidays. Keep sunscreen as the final skincare step. An exfoliating scrub does not replace moisturizer or sun protection, and adding more exfoliation is not a substitute for either.5