Face toner products: what to choose and how to use them

Do you need a face toner?

A basic morning routine is cleanser, moisturizer and sunscreen. Toner is an extra rather than a basic routine requirement, despite the skincare industry's enthusiasm for assigning homework. If those essentials already meet your needs, there is no missing step to fill. Toner also does not replace moisturizer: moisturizer helps keep water from evaporating from your skin.2

What kinds of toner are there?

A product called an essence can still be a toner, because skincare names are not a filing system. Tonics and exfoliating acids can also fall into this category. An astringent is different: it is usually alcohol based and intended to control oil, but can be harsh and drying.1

Acid toners can make pores look smaller by clearing clogs and smoothing texture. They do not permanently shrink pores; pore size is largely genetic.1

How should you choose an exfoliating toner?

Alpha hydroxy acids, often shortened to AHAs, include glycolic and lactic acid. They loosen the substances holding surface skin cells together, helping old cells shed. Regular use can improve uneven color and texture, brown marks and fine lines. Those are ingredient benefits, not a reason to expect every toner to deliver the same result. Acid products come in different concentrations and bases, so the word toner does not tell you how strong a product is.3

Leave on AHA products are best applied at night. They can be alternated with retinoid creams or vitamin C rather than used together in the same application. Mixing vitamin C with chemical exfoliants can affect skin's pH, its acidity. Avoid piling several exfoliating products into the same routine, and protect your skin from the sun.23

How do you apply face toner?

1. 1Cleanse gently first, using your hands rather than an abrasive washcloth.
2. 2Gently swipe toner over your face with a cotton round, or mist it on if it comes as a spray. Do not rinse it off.
3. 3Apply any other suitable products from thinner to thicker textures, then moisturizer.
4. 4Finish your morning routine with sunscreen.

A tolerated toner can be used once or twice daily. Start strong acid formulas every other day and increase only if your skin tolerates them. Morning use is an option for a nonexfoliating toner; choose nighttime for a leave on AHA formula.13

What if you have sensitive skin or rosacea?

For sensitive skin, favor gentle products and avoid heavy fragrance. Choose fragrance free rather than unscented: an unscented product can contain fragrance used to mask other smells. Fragrances are the most common cause of cosmetic contact dermatitis, a skin reaction caused by contact with a product. Preservatives can also cause allergies, but water containing cosmetics need antimicrobial preservatives to prevent bacterial or fungal growth.4

If you have rosacea, skip toners and astringents, including exfoliating toners. Rosacea skin is easily irritated, and glycolic acid, lactic acid, alcohol and fragrance are among the ingredients to avoid. Use a gentle cleanser and a rosacea friendly moisturizer instead. If you use prescribed rosacea medication, apply the medication before moisturizer. Ask your dermatologist for product suggestions if you struggle to find products your skin tolerates.5

Should you use toner for acne?

Do not add toner automatically because you have breakouts. During acne treatment, use gentle products labeled alcohol free and avoid irritating toners and exfoliants. Drying out skin can make acne look worse. Stick with your acne treatment rather than repeatedly changing products: improvement can take several weeks to a few months. If breakouts continue despite a consistent routine, see a dermatologist for help treating them and reducing the risk of scars.6

Can you use toner during pregnancy?

Glycolic acid is safe in pregnancy. That does not make every toner suitable: a toner can contain other active ingredients, so pregnancy suitability depends on the whole formula, not the product category.3

How long does toner take to work?

Visible changes generally take six weeks to three months and can be subtle. Toners intended to address acne or dark marks can take about two to three months.1

When should you stop using toner?

Stop the product and arrange a dermatologist appointment if you develop irritation or a rash. Watch for burning, itching, swelling or scaly patches, not just redness, which can be less obvious on darker skin. Reactions do not always appear immediately: weaker irritants can cause symptoms after days or weeks, and an allergy can develop after years of uneventful use. A dermatologist can use patch testing to identify a cosmetic allergy.24