Green Pharmacy cleansing balm: how to use it

What does a cleansing balm do?

Cleansing balms are rich, usually semi solid cleansers that melt as you massage them onto skin. They contain oils that help loosen makeup, sunscreen and oily residue. Adding water typically changes the balm into a milky texture so you can rinse it away. A balm's rich texture is part of the format, not a request to turn face washing into a ceremony.1

Oil helps dissolve oily residue. Surfactants, the cleansing ingredients that help oil and dirt wash away, have one part that attaches to oily material and another that interacts with water. That combination explains why rinsing matters: loosening makeup is only part of the job. The loosened material still needs to leave your face.3

How do you use a cleansing balm?

1. 1Check the pack for the amount to use and whether to start with dry or wet skin. If the label calls for dry application, do not wet your face first.
2. 2Massage the balm gently with your fingertips to loosen makeup, sunscreen and oil. Do not scrub or use an abrasive sponge.
3. 3Add water if the directions call for emulsifying the balm, meaning turning it into a milky mixture that rinses away.
4. 4Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. Avoid hot water, which can dry your skin.
5. 5If you are double cleansing, leave your face damp and gently apply your water based cleanser. Rinse again.
6. 6Pat dry with a soft towel. Apply moisturizer if your skin is dry or itchy.

Use your hands rather than treating a washcloth as a necessary cleansing tool. Fingertips are enough to apply cleanser, and scrubbing can irritate skin. Be gentle when applying moisturizer around your eyes so you do not pull on the delicate skin there.5

Do you need another cleanser afterwards?

Double cleansing means using an oil based cleanser first, then a water based cleanser. The first step targets oily residue; the second removes remaining residue and water soluble dirt and sweat.1

Most people do not need to double cleanse. One thorough wash with a gentle cleanser is usually enough. A balm followed by another cleanser can be useful for waterproof makeup or waterproof sunscreen, but adding a wash automatically can cause more trouble than it solves. Excessive washing can cause dryness, irritation and damage to the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps retain moisture.4

When and how often should you use it?

Evening is the practical time for a balm when you want to remove the day's makeup and sunscreen. If you try double cleansing, start slowly rather than immediately making both washes a daily requirement. Dry or normal skin does not necessarily need a double cleanse every evening. Whether a particular balm is intended for morning and evening use depends on its directions.1

General face washing advice is to wash once in the morning, once at night and after heavy sweating. An extra wash after sweating does not mean an extra balm step is required. Keep the cleansing gentle rather than increasing pressure or scrubbing to make the wash feel more thorough.5

Who should be careful with a balm?

For dry or sensitive skin, prioritize gentle cleansing and avoid harsh, excessively drying or fragranced cleansers. If you add a water based cleanser, a gentle cream cleanser is less drying than a foaming one. For acne prone skin, oil based cleansers can cause breakouts, particularly when used alone. A balm's texture does not tell you whether your skin will tolerate its formula.4

If you have eczema or rosacea, ask a dermatologist before starting a double cleansing routine. If you already use leave on acne treatments, be cautious about adding a cleanser containing acne treatment ingredients: too much treatment can cause excessive dryness and irritation. Cleansing should remove residue, not become an additional treatment by accident.13

What should you expect after washing?

Makeup and sunscreen removal happen during cleansing; you do not need weeks of use to judge whether they rinse away. Persistent tightness, excessive dryness or stinging are reasons to reconsider the cleanser or how often you wash. Cleansers can also cause irritation or contact dermatitis, an inflamed skin reaction, through ingredients such as fragrances or preservatives.3

How do you test it before using it on your face?

1. 1Choose a small test area on the underside of your arm or inside your elbow.
2. 2Apply the normal amount twice daily for seven to 10 days.
3. 3For a cleanser, leave it on for five minutes or for the time its instructions specify, then rinse.
4. 4If you develop red, itchy or swollen skin, wash the product off and do not use it again.

A cool compress or petroleum jelly can help soothe a reaction. See a dermatologist if the reaction is severe and those measures do not relieve it. If the trigger is unclear, medical patch testing can help identify the ingredient responsible. If fragrance causes reactions, choose fragrance free products; products described as unscented or botanical can still contain fragrance related ingredients.6

If you meant Innisfree Green Tea Ceramide Cleansing Balm

The US Innisfree product costs $19 for 100 g and comes in a tube. Innisfree directs you to massage a dime sized amount onto a dry face with dry hands, add water to emulsify, then rinse with lukewarm water. It is intended for daily morning and evening use without a second cleanser. The ingredient list includes fragrance, linalool and geraniol, despite the separate claim that it is formulated without synthetic fragrance. Check your package's current ingredient list.2

Price can vary greatly even when cleanser ingredients are similar, so the receipt is not a performance test.3