How do you choose a serum for your skin type?

What a serum does

A serum is a light, quickly absorbed liquid with concentrated ingredients. It is not a moisturizer. Serums are typically applied after cleansing and before moisturizer, and a few drops can cover the face. Serums often arrive in small dropper bottles, giving a few drops of liquid the air of a laboratory.1

The formula matters as much as the ingredient name: serum results depend on the active ingredients, the formulation, the vehicle and the stability of the compound. Read the ingredient list to see whether the serum is aimed at your concern.1

Start with one skin concern

Choose what you want the serum to address before browsing ingredient trends. For wrinkles, options include antioxidants such as tea polyphenols and resveratrol, retinol or niacinamide. For dark patches, vitamin C, kojic acid and glycolic acid are options. For dry, tight or flaky skin, look for vitamin E, niacinamide, glycolic acid, ceramides or hyaluronic acid.1

Check your skin type

The common categories are dry, oily, normal, combination and sensitive. Dry skin can feel tight or look dull and scaly. Oily skin can look shiny or greasy, with enlarged pores, blackheads or pimples. Combination skin can have oilier areas on the forehead, nose and chin, with drier cheeks. Normal skin does not tend to feel especially dry or oily. Sensitivity can occur with dry, oily or combination skin.2

1. 1Wash and dry your face, then wait 30 minutes.
2. 2Notice whether your skin feels oily, tight or comfortable. You can also press blotting paper on your forehead, nose, chin and cheeks to see where oil collects.
3. 3Use how your skin looks and feels as your main clue; blotting paper is optional.

Match the formula to your skin

Skin type is one filter; your concern is another. If you have combination skin, choose which area you want to address, because different parts of your face can need different products. If your skin feels balanced, choose a serum for a specific concern rather than assuming that a normal skin label names an ingredient you need.2

How to use and test a serum

Follow the directions for the specific formula for its frequency and time of day, since serum ingredients and formulations differ. Keep moisturizer as a separate step because a serum is not a replacement for a lotion or cream.1

1. 1Apply the serum to a small test spot twice daily for seven to 10 days. The underside of your arm or the bend of your elbow is one option.
2. 2Leave it on for as long as you would normally. For a product you would wash off, follow its directions.
3. 3If the spot stays free of redness, itching and swelling after the test, begin using the product as directed.

If a reaction appears, gently wash the serum off and do not use it again. A severe reaction, or one not relieved by cool compresses or petroleum jelly, is a reason to see a dermatologist. Be careful combining an acid containing serum with other acid products. Vitamin C with a retinol cream, or a retinol serum with a prescription retinol cream, can irritate skin.13

What to expect from a serum

For signs of aging, begin with sunscreen and moisturizer, then give them a few weeks before adding a product aimed at one remaining concern. Skin care products for aging deliver modest results, and no one product treats every sign. Avoid adding several new products within a few days or weeks, because doing so can irritate skin.4

What serum is good for dry skin?

Pair it with a moisturizer rather than asking the serum to do both jobs. Humectants in moisturizers attract and retain water, while a serum is a separate step. If your skin is also sensitive, introduce glycolic acid carefully because it can irritate sensitive skin.15

What serum is good for oily skin?

Niacinamide is one option: it may help regulate oil production. If clogged pores are a concern, look for a noncomedogenic label, which means the product is designed not to clog pores. Choose based on the ingredients and the concern you want to address, not the assumption that every serum for oily skin works the same way.26

What serum is good for sensitive skin?

Look for fragrance free products, avoid dyes and other harsh ingredients, and start with a low concentration of niacinamide if you choose that ingredient. A hypoallergenic label means lower risk of an allergic reaction, not zero risk, so test the formula before using it broadly. Stop if you develop redness, itching, swelling or burning. If it is hard to identify what triggered a reaction, a dermatologist can help.2346