How to exfoliate properly

Should you use a scrub or an acid?

Exfoliation removes dead cells from the skin's outer layer. Mechanical exfoliation uses a scrub, brush, pad or sponge; chemical exfoliation uses acids to loosen dead cells. The two methods do the same basic job differently, so a bathroom full of tools is not a separate qualification.1

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin can find mechanical exfoliation too irritating; a mild chemical exfoliator is an option. Oily, thicker skin can tolerate stronger methods. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have darker skin or develop dark spots after inflammation, because it can increase pigmentation.1

How do you properly exfoliate your skin?

For your face, keep ordinary cleansing gentle rather than making every wash an exfoliation session. Use a cleanser without alcohol or abrasive particles. Apply cleanser with your fingertips: a washcloth or mesh sponge can irritate facial skin even before you add an exfoliant.2

1. 1Wet your face with lukewarm water and gently apply cleanser with your fingertips. Rinse without scrubbing.
2. 2For a scrub or chemical exfoliator that you rinse off, apply gently in small circles for about 30 seconds, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water.
3. 3If using a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes rather than firm rubbing.
4. 4Apply moisturizer immediately after exfoliating.

Wash your face once in the morning and once at night, and after heavy sweating. Those are washing times, not instructions to exfoliate at every wash. Pat your face dry with a soft towel, and apply creams gently around the eyes without pulling the skin.2

How often should you exfoliate?

There is no single schedule for every skin type and method. Exfoliate less often with more aggressive methods. Redness and irritation are reasons to cut back, not increase the frequency.1

Check your existing routine first. Prescription retinoids, retinol and benzoyl peroxide can make skin sensitive or cause peeling. Adding exfoliation can worsen dryness or trigger acne breakouts.1

How do you properly exfoliate your body?

Dry brushing is one mechanical option for rough, flaky body skin. Use a natural bristled bath brush; a long handle helps you reach your back. A plain, dry washcloth is an alternative if the bristles are too much for sensitive skin. Keep a body dry brush off your face, where skin is more sensitive.3

1. 1Before showering, inspect your skin and avoid damaged or irritated areas.
2. 2Begin at your feet or ankles and work upward with long, flowing strokes along your limbs.
3. 3Use circular movements on your torso and back, with lighter pressure on sensitive areas such as the abdomen, breasts and neck.
4. 4Use only a few overlapping strokes on each area. Repeated passes can cause irritation or bleeding.
5. 5Shower afterward to wash away loosened skin, then apply lotion.

Dry brushing can leave skin smoother, softer and temporarily brighter, which is a surface polish rather than a renovation. It does not have scientific support as a way to reduce cellulite.3

What can exfoliation actually improve?

Dead cells can contribute to dullness, uneven looking skin and clogged pores. Exfoliation helps shed the outermost layer, renewing the skin's surface. Natural shedding slows with age, but that does not make stronger exfoliation the automatic answer: too much can cause sensitivity and irritation.4

Professional chemical peels include salicylic acid, glycolic acid and blended acids. Salicylic acid peels can penetrate into pores and are an option for frequent acne breakouts. Lactic acid peels gently exfoliate while increasing ceramides, substances that support the skin's moisture barrier. A dermatologist or skincare professional can choose a peel for your skin concerns and intended result rather than treating all acids as interchangeable.4

When should you skip exfoliation?

Do not exfoliate cuts, sores, broken skin or sunburn. Avoid dry brushing over infections, irritated areas, moles, warts or raised bumps. Stop brushing immediately if you notice redness, swelling or inflammation. Have concerning skin changes checked by a dermatologist before changing your routine.3

If you have rosacea, a condition that can cause facial redness and sensitivity, do not rub or scrub your face: this can worsen it. Cleanse with a soap substitute and use a moisturizer without perfume if your skin is dry or sensitive.5