How to exfoliate correctly

Which exfoliation method should you choose?

Dry, sensitive or acne prone skin generally calls for a mild approach rather than abrasive tools. Oily, thicker skin can tolerate stronger methods, but strength is not a starting requirement. Avoid aggressive exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark marks after spots, bites or burns, because it can increase pigmentation.1

Before adding an exfoliant, check whether you already use retinol, prescription retinoid creams or benzoyl peroxide. These can make skin more sensitive or cause peeling; extra exfoliation can worsen dryness or breakouts. Consider the whole routine, rather than treating each bottle as a separate decision.1

How to exfoliate, step by step

1. 1Check your skin first. Do not exfoliate sunburned skin or areas with open cuts or wounds.
2. 2Read the directions and warnings. Follow the product's application and removal instructions rather than giving every acid the same contact time.
3. 3Use a light touch. For a rinse off scrub, use small, gentle circular motions for about 30 seconds, then rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water. With a brush or sponge, use short, light strokes.
4. 4Apply moisturizer immediately afterwards. Exfoliation can dry the skin.
5. 5Use SPF 30 or higher sunscreen every day. With alpha hydroxy acids, also wear protective clothing and limit sun exposure during use and for a week after stopping.

How often should you exfoliate?

For a separate exfoliation session, avoid daily use and keep it to no more than two or three times a week. More aggressive methods need longer gaps. If you choose glycolic acid, start once or twice a week at night. Increase frequency only if your skin tolerates it and the directions allow it.134

Some salicylic acid cleansers are gentle enough for daily use, so a treatment cleanser is not automatically the same as a separate scrub or peel session. If a salicylic acid cleanser dries or irritates your skin, alternate it with a mild cleanser.5

What should you expect?

Exfoliation can improve dullness, rough texture and some surface discoloration. A brighter surface is a realistic goal, not a factory reset. Do not expect routine exfoliation to erase wrinkles. Gentle acids work gradually with regular use; there is no single results timetable that fits every formula. Acid type, concentration, acidity and other ingredients all affect how much an AHA product exfoliates.236

When should you stop or get help?

Stop exfoliating if your skin becomes red, chapped, unusually flaky, tender or stingy when you apply skincare. Overexfoliation can damage the skin barrier, the outer layer that keeps water in and harmful substances out. Focus on gentle cleansing and moisturizer instead. A dermatologist can help if exfoliation makes you uncomfortable or you are unsure whether it suits your skin.356

Professional chemical peels are a different procedure, not simply a stronger version of your weekly routine. They can cause injuries of different depths and require specific aftercare. If you have a peel, follow your clinician's instructions and report problems promptly.7