How to use niacinamide correctly

What strength should you choose?

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. Concentrations of 2% to 5% have useful clinical results: 2% in a moisturizer reduced facial oiliness, 4% gel helped acne, and 5% improved pigmentation and signs of aging. For sensitive skin, start at the lower end rather than making a stronger formula your first experiment.134

How to add niacinamide to your routine

1. 1Test the product first. Apply a small amount to your inner forearm twice daily for four to five days. If there is no redness, itching or other reaction, begin using it on your face.
2. 2Cleanse gently before applying your skincare products.
3. 3Apply niacinamide using the amount and frequency on the label. Do not apply extra to try to speed up results.
4. 4Include moisturizer. One general layering option is to apply niacinamide after moisturizer; a niacinamide serum can also be combined with moisturizer and applied to the face and neck.
5. 5Keep daily sunscreen in your morning routine. Niacinamide does not work as sunscreen or prevent sunburn.

Once daily is a practical starting schedule within the usual once or twice daily use. If twice daily niacinamide gel causes excessive dryness, reduce it to once daily or every other day. Introduce one new product at a time so you are not adding several potentially irritating formulas together.123

Can you use it with vitamin C or retinol?

Niacinamide can be paired with vitamin C, retinol, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid and moisturizers containing ceramides. Pairing ingredients does not mean introducing them all on the same day. Add products gradually and increase use only as tolerated. Avoid stacking several niacinamide products in the same routine. If you are pregnant, trying to become pregnant or breastfeeding, avoid topical retinoids; niacinamide in a combination formula does not change that advice.14

What should you expect, and when?

Niacinamide can support the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps hold moisture in. Clinical trials also support improvements in uneven pigmentation and signs of aging. With 2% niacinamide moisturizer, reduced facial oiliness was seen over four to six weeks. With 5% niacinamide used twice daily, freckles and sun spots improved as early as four weeks. Changes in fine lines and texture were reported over eight to twelve weeks. Expect gradual changes rather than an immediate transformation.345

Niacinamide may make pores look less noticeable, but nothing has been proven to reduce their actual size. Less visible pores are not vanished pores, despite the marketing department's enthusiasm for making them disappear.1

What if your niacinamide is in a mask?

A niacinamide mask is an optional addition to your routine, not a promotion to head of skincare. Follow the label's application time and frequency, and moisturize after washing the mask off. Avoid a mask that duplicates exfoliating ingredients you already use. A mask does not replace cleansing, moisturizing, sun protection or treatment for acne.6

When should you stop using it?

Niacinamide is generally well tolerated, including by some people who cannot tolerate retinoids or fruit acids. Stop a nonprescription product if it stings, burns or tingles. Itching and redness are also possible reactions. Wash a mask off immediately if it causes itching, burning or stinging. For a prescribed product, ask your dermatologist about these symptoms before stopping. See a dermatologist if your skin worsens or a medical skin concern needs treatment.12346