What is niacinamide?
Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a form of vitamin B3. In skincare, topical means applied directly to the skin rather than taken as a supplement. Skin cells use niacinamide to make coenzymes, molecules that help processes such as energy production and cellular defence work properly. Its skincare benefits involve support for the skin barrier, reduced inflammation and effects on pigmentation, rather than one fully understood molecular target.13
What does niacinamide do for skin?
Niacinamide helps skin retain water by improving barrier function. It can increase production of ceramides, protective fats naturally present in skin. That makes hydration a useful reason to choose it, even if dark spots or wrinkles are not your main concern.2
- Redness: Niacinamide eases inflammation and can help calm redness associated with acne, rosacea and eczema.
- Dark spots: Formulas containing 5% niacinamide can help lighten dark spots and brighten uneven skin tone.
- Fine lines: Topical niacinamide can improve the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and sallowness, meaning a yellowish skin tone.
- Oiliness: Niacinamide can help regulate oil production, which contributes to facial shine and clogged pores.
Pores can look less noticeable without becoming physically smaller, which is a less dramatic claim than deleting them. Niacinamide can help their appearance by improving skin smoothness and clarity.3
What strength works, and how long does it take?
Clinical results include improvements with concentrations of 2% to 5%. The concentration and the concern matter: an oil control result is not a timetable for fading pigmentation.2
| Concern | Formula studied | Results and timing |
|---|---|---|
| Facial oiliness | 2% niacinamide moisturizer | Reduced sebum, the skin's oil, after 4 to 6 weeks. |
| Eyelid wrinkles | Cosmetic containing 4% niacinamide | Improvement after 8 weeks in a study of 30 women. |
| Fine lines, pigmentation, texture and red blotchiness | 5% topical niacinamide | Improvement during a 12 week trial in 50 women. |
For acne, a trial in 76 people with moderate acne found 4% nicotinamide gel as effective as 1% clindamycin gel. That result concerns a specific acne gel, not every cosmetic serum containing niacinamide.2
How do you use niacinamide?
Niacinamide is available in cleansers, moisturizers and serums, so a separate bottle is not an admission requirement.3
- 1Choose a low concentration and start slowly if your skin is sensitive. Most skincare products contain 5% niacinamide or less.
- 2Patch test a small amount on your forearm and wait 24 hours before wider use.
- 3Cleanse gently, then use niacinamide during your regular routine. General guidance allows application after moisturizer or combining a niacinamide serum with moisturizer.
- 4Use it once or twice daily. Avoid adding several niacinamide products at once.
Niacinamide can be paired with vitamin C, retinol, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid and moisturizers containing ceramides.3
Can sensitive skin use niacinamide?
Niacinamide is generally well tolerated, including by people who cannot tolerate topical retinoids or fruit acids. Moisturizers containing it have improved barrier function in people with rosacea. If twice daily nicotinamide gel causes excessive dryness, reduce use to once daily or every other day.2
Rare side effects include itching, mild burning, redness and allergic reactions. Stop using a product that causes these symptoms rather than continuing to apply it to irritated skin.3
Does niacinamide replace sunscreen?
No. Niacinamide does not prevent sunburn or work as a sunscreen. Daily sunscreen remains necessary even when niacinamide is part of your routine. Oral niacin supplements are a separate decision, not a substitute for topical skincare or sun protection; speak with your healthcare provider before taking a high dose vitamin supplement.24
Where this answer comes from
- 1Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentationpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 2Nicotinamidedermnetnz.org
- 3Niacinamide: What It Is and Skin Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 4Niacin (Vitamin B3): Uses, Benefits, Sources & Side Effectshealth.clevelandclinic.org