Skincare with niacinamide: benefits and how to use it

What is niacinamide in skincare?

Niacinamide, also called nicotinamide, is a water soluble form of vitamin B3. In skincare, topical use means applying it directly to the skin. Niacin and niacinamide have the same vitamin function, but their other effects differ, so the names are not interchangeable when choosing a product.23

Skin cells use niacinamide to make NAD, a molecule involved in energy production and cellular repair. Niacinamide also influences inflammatory responses and the skin barrier. These mechanisms help explain its uses, but the exact way it controls skin ageing and pigmentation is still not fully understood.34

What does niacinamide do in skincare?

• It supports the skin barrier, the protective outer layer that helps retain moisture and keep irritants out.
• It can ease inflammation and associated redness.
• It may regulate oil production and make pores look less noticeable.
• Formulas containing 5% niacinamide can help lighten dark spots.
• It may soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Nothing has been proven to shrink actual pore size, however ambitious the word "poreless" gets on a bottle. Less noticeable pores are a change in appearance, not the removal of pores.1

Niacinamide's benefits are supported by controlled clinical trials, not just explanations of how cells work. Trials of topical niacinamide, used alone or alongside other ingredients, have found improvements in pigmentation and signs of skin ageing. A combination formula's results belong to that formula; they are not a reason to expect the same outcome from every niacinamide product.34

What strength should you choose?

Most skincare products contain 5% niacinamide or less, although concentrations vary. Research includes 2% moisturizers for oiliness, 4% gels for acne and 5% formulas for visible signs of ageing. A 10% serum is available, but a lower percentage is not automatically too weak to be useful.125

How do you use niacinamide in skincare?

1. 1Patch test a small amount on your forearm and wait 24 hours before using it more widely.
2. 2Cleanse gently before applying your skincare.
3. 3Follow the product's layering instructions. General guidance allows niacinamide after moisturizer; The Ordinary's serum goes before heavier moisturizers or treatments.
4. 4Start slowly with a low concentration if your skin is sensitive. Niacinamide can generally be used once or twice daily.
5. 5Check how many products in your routine already contain niacinamide rather than adding several at once.

Can you use it with retinol or vitamin C?

General skincare guidance allows pairing niacinamide with retinol, vitamin C, glycolic acid, hyaluronic acid and moisturizers containing ceramides. Product directions can differ: The Ordinary tells you to use its Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% serum and vitamin C in separate routines. Follow that instruction for this serum rather than treating general compatibility as permission to ignore it.15

Which skincare products contain niacinamide?

Your moisturizer can already be the niacinamide step.1

One example is The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%, a water based serum containing niacinamide and zinc PCA. The Ordinary directs you to apply a few drops morning and evening after cleansing, before heavier products, and only on unbroken skin. This is an example of a specific formula, not the default strength everyone needs.5

How long does niacinamide take to work?

Think in weeks for oiliness, pigmentation and fine lines. A trial of a 2% niacinamide moisturizer found reduced facial oiliness over four to six weeks. A 5% formula improved pigmentation, texture, fine lines and red blotchiness during a 12 week trial. These are useful assessment windows, not deadlines for a particular bottle.2

Who should be careful?

Niacinamide is generally well tolerated, including by some people who cannot tolerate topical retinoids or fruit acids. Niacinamide moisturizers have also improved barrier function in people with rosacea. For niacinamide acne gels, excessive dryness with twice daily use is a reason to reduce application to once daily or every other day.2

Rare reactions include itching, redness, mild burning and allergy. Do not use a product that causes a reaction during patch testing. If The Ordinary serum causes irritation, rinse it off, stop using it and consult a physician.15

Niacinamide itself is not sunscreen and does not prevent sunburn. A sunscreen containing niacinamide and a niacinamide serum are not interchangeable.2