What does niacinamide cream do?

  • It supports the skin barrier, the outer layer that keeps moisture in and irritants out. Niacinamide reduces water loss and helps skin make ceramides, protective fats that support hydration.
  • It helps calm inflammation and redness associated with acne, rosacea and eczema. Moisturizers containing niacinamide have also improved barrier function in people with rosacea.
  • It can reduce sebum, the oil responsible for facial shine, making it useful for oily skin as well as skin that needs moisture.
  • It can improve dark spots, uneven pigmentation, texture and fine lines. These are gradual cosmetic improvements rather than immediate changes.
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Niacinamide can make pores look less noticeable, but nothing has been proven to reduce their actual size. Less visible pores are a realistic goal, not an application to have them deleted.2

How long does it take to work?

Allow several weeks of consistent use. A 2% niacinamide moisturizer reduced oil production and facial shine over four to six weeks. Improvements in wrinkles have been reported after eight weeks with a 4% formula, while a 5% formula improved pigmentation, texture and fine lines over 12 weeks. Treat these as useful checkpoints, not deadlines for your cream.1

Can it help acne?

Niacinamide can help acne through its effects on inflammation and oil production. Adding 5% niacinamide cream to a routine using 2.5% benzoyl peroxide improved blackheads and whiteheads more than benzoyl peroxide with a plain cream over 12 weeks. The added benefit for inflamed spots was less clear, and there was no clear extra improvement in red or dark acne marks. Think of niacinamide as a possible supporting ingredient, not a reason to replace prescribed acne treatment.4

How should you use niacinamide cream?

A concentration of 2% to 5% is a practical range to consider: these strengths have been used for oiliness and visible signs of ageing. If your skin is sensitive, start with a low concentration. Niacinamide is generally well tolerated, including by some people who cannot tolerate retinoids or fruit acids.12

  1. 1Test a small amount on your forearm and wait 24 hours before using the cream more widely.
  2. 2Apply after gentle cleansing, following your cream's directions. Niacinamide can be used once or twice daily, so morning or evening can fit.
  3. 3If twice daily use causes excessive dryness, reduce application to once daily or every other day.
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Niacinamide can be paired with vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, ceramides, glycolic acid or retinol. Avoid stacking several niacinamide products at once; the ingredient does not need an entire supporting cast with the same name. If you use retinol, apply the retinol as directed and finish with moisturizer. During pregnancy or breastfeeding, discuss retinol use with your healthcare provider.25

What should you watch for?

Rare side effects include itching, mild burning, redness and allergic reactions. Stop using the cream if it causes these symptoms, and seek medical advice if a reaction persists or you suspect an allergy. Niacinamide's benefits do not require pushing through irritation.2

Niacinamide does not prevent sunburn, so keep using sunscreen daily. A cream can help skin look smoother and brighter without being promoted to sunscreen. Oral niacin supplements are a separate decision and should not be substituted for your cream; high doses need medical guidance.16

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Nicotinamidedermnetnz.org
  2. 2Niacinamide: What It Is and Skin Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Mechanistic Basis and Clinical Evidence for the Applications of Nicotinamide (Niacinamide) to Control Skin Aging and Pigmentationpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  4. 4Clinical Comparison of Topical 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide plus 5% Niacinamide to 2.5% Benzoyl Peroxide Alone in the Treatment of Mild to Moderate Facial Acne Vulgaripmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
  5. 5Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
  6. 6Niacin (Vitamin B3): Uses, Benefits, Sources & Side Effectshealth.clevelandclinic.org