Moisturizer vs emollient: what's the difference?

Do you need both?

You do not need separate products just because one says moisturizer and another says emollient. A moisturizer can combine ingredients that soften skin, attract water and reduce water loss. The names overlap in everyday use, so the bathroom shelf has not acquired two separate departments.1

Which texture should you choose?

• For mild or seasonal dryness, a lotion can be enough. Lotions spread easily and work well on hairy areas.
• For dry skin, start with a cream or ointment rather than a lotion. Creams contain more oil than lotions and are easier to use during the day.
• For very dry or thickened skin, an ointment offers a thicker, longer lasting protective layer. Its greasy texture often makes it more practical overnight.
• For oily skin, consider a lighter gel. For combination skin, moisturize the dry areas rather than automatically covering the oily areas.
• For sensitive skin, avoid fragrance. Ointments usually contain fewer preservatives, but do not use them on weeping eczema.

Creams and ointments can share a routine, even if the packaging would prefer an exclusive relationship. A cream during the day and an ointment at night is one practical combination.5

How to apply either

1. 1Wash your hands. If the product comes in a tub, take it out with a clean spoon or spatula rather than your fingers.
2. 2After a warm, not hot, bath or shower, gently pat skin dry. Apply promptly while skin is still damp, ideally within three minutes.
3. 3Smooth the product gently in the direction of hair growth instead of rubbing vigorously.
4. 4Leave the moisturizer on. Reapply when skin feels dry or tight.

Slightly dry skin may need only a light moisturizer at night. Dry skin conditions often need application two to four times daily or more. Therapeutic benefits are greatest during the first six hours after application, so regular use matters more than the name on the bottle. Products without active medicines are generally suitable for use as needed; check the label for ingredients such as hydrocortisone and follow its directions.123

Some emollients also work as soap substitutes, so a bottle can have two jobs without needing a promotion. These are washing products or uses, not an instruction to rinse off your moisturizer. Regular soap can worsen dryness; an emollient cleanser is an alternative for dry skin conditions, but white soft paraffin is not suitable for this use.2

What needs extra care?

Introduce one new product at a time so you can identify the cause of a reaction. Heavy occlusive products can aggravate acne. Stop a product that makes skin itchy or sore, and seek advice for persistent burning, a rash or inflamed hair follicles. See a dermatologist if dryness becomes painful, cracked, bleeding or does not improve.2345

If you use a topical steroid, meaning a steroid applied to skin, separate it from your emollient by 30 minutes and ask your clinician which goes first. Follow specific instructions during ultraviolet light treatment or radiotherapy.256

Keep emollient contaminated clothing, bedding and dressings away from flames and cigarettes, including with products without paraffin. Washing does not completely remove the buildup. Emollients also make baths, showers and floors slippery.5