Retinol or retinyl palmitate: which is better?

What is the difference?

Is retinyl palmitate weaker than retinol?

Retinyl palmitate sits one step further from retinoic acid, the active form that acts on receptors in skin. That explains the usual description of it as weaker, but does not give you a numerical strength comparison. You cannot translate a percentage of retinyl palmitate into an equivalent percentage of retinol from the conversion pathway alone.2

Is retinyl palmitate as effective as retinol?

Do not treat them as interchangeable for visible results. Even cosmetic retinol has limited trustworthy evidence for improving facial aging: possible benefits are modest and mainly concern fine wrinkle lines. Treat wrinkle claims as modest possibilities, not a plan to delete the calendar. Choose retinol for a trial aimed at those concerns, rather than choosing retinyl palmitate on the assumption that it delivers the same result.2

Which retinoid is best for beginners?

Start with the least intense formula you can find, rather than jumping straight to prescription tretinoin. For retinol, choose the lowest available strength and introduce it slowly. Retinol percentages do not have to appear on cosmetic packaging, so the label can be unusually quiet about the detail you came to read. An extra conversion step is not a promise that a retinyl palmitate product will be irritation free.1

How do you start retinol?

1. 1Try a little on a small area first. Wait a couple of days and check for redness or itching before using it across your face.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat dry. Avoid scrubbing.
3. 3Follow the package directions. General retinol guidance is a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the face, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Begin every other night, or every few nights if needed, and increase gradually as tolerated.
5. 5Finish with moisturizer. If retinol is irritating, a thin layer of moisturizer before retinol can help.

Avoid doubling up with a retinol serum and a retinol face cream. During the day, use broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, seek shade and wear protective clothing. Daily sun protection helps prevent the sun damage responsible for photoaging, meaning skin aging caused by sunlight.45

What should you expect?

Visible retinol changes take weeks, and fine line improvements usually take several months. Dryness, peeling, redness, itching and burning are possible. Do not keep increasing application while your skin is irritated. People with darker skin should be particularly careful because irritation can trigger dark marks.13

Who should avoid either ingredient?

Avoid both during pregnancy. If you are trying to become pregnant or breastfeeding, review your skincare and prescriptions with your obstetrician or dermatologist. If you have skin allergies, substantial dryness, or persistent redness and inflammation, get advice before starting a retinoid. Stop an irritating product and seek advice if redness or inflammation persists.16