Retinol or bakuchiol: which is better?

What is the difference?

Choose retinol if your priorities are mild fine lines, pigmentation or rough texture and your skin tolerates it. Choose bakuchiol if you want to address signs of ageing but retinol leaves your skin dry or irritated.23

Is bakuchiol as effective as retinol?

Bakuchiol has shown comparable improvement to retinol for signs of ageing in a clinical comparison, with fewer adverse effects. The comparison is with cosmetic retinol, not prescription treatments such as tretinoin. Bakuchiol has promising results for signs of ageing, but 'retinol alternative' is a description, not a coronation.2

Bakuchiol also has antioxidant activity. Laboratory work found that both bakuchiol and retinol increased proteins involved in skin's supporting structure, including collagen. Those shared effects help explain why both ingredients are used for ageing skin; they do not make the ingredients interchangeable.1

How do I start retinol?

1. 1Choose the lowest strength you can find. Test a small area first and wait a couple of days to check for redness or itching.
2. 2At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your skin dry. Do not scrub.
3. 3Follow the product directions. General guidance is a thin, pea sized amount across the face, avoiding the eyes, mouth and nose.
4. 4Finish with moisturizer. Start every other night, or less often if needed, and increase gradually as tolerated.
5. 5Use sunscreen during the day, seek shade and cover exposed skin with clothing.

Retinol takes several weeks to produce visible improvements, and changes in wrinkles usually take several months. Dark spots can also take months to fade. A stronger starting formula is not a shortcut: starting slowly and moisturizing helps reduce irritation.34

How do I use bakuchiol?

Apply bakuchiol once or twice a day. For twice daily use, apply it in the morning and evening. Put a bakuchiol serum before moisturizer, or a bakuchiol cream after other serums. Keep wearing sunscreen even though bakuchiol does not appear to increase sun sensitivity.2

Is bakuchiol or retinol better for sensitive skin?

Bakuchiol is generally the gentler option. Retinoids are a poor starting choice for skin with significant dryness, allergies, redness or inflammation. On darker skin, irritation can trigger dark marks, called hyperpigmentation, so slow introduction and moisturizer matter particularly.23

Do not increase retinol use while your skin is irritated. Ask a dermatologist about alternatives if you have substantial redness or inflammation. If acne is your main concern, seek medical help for deep, painful spots, scarring or acne that is not improving rather than relying on a cosmetic ingredient swap.345

What if I am pregnant?

Avoid retinol and other retinoids during pregnancy. Bakuchiol's pregnancy safety remains uncertain, so ask your healthcare provider before using it. If you are trying to become pregnant, discuss your medications and prescription skincare with your obstetrician and dermatologist so they can update your treatment plan.26