Which type should you choose?
| Type | What to expect | When to choose it |
|---|---|---|
| DHA cream or lotion | Often includes moisturizers and produces developing color. | Choose it for a moisturizing format that you apply by hand. |
| DHA mousse or foam | Relatively quick drying; potentially suitable for oily skin. | Choose it when drying speed matters. |
| DHA spray | Applies the tanning formula as a spray. | Choose it only when you can prevent inhalation and protect the eyes, lips and other sensitive areas. |
| Bronzer | Temporary color, like makeup, that washes off. | Choose it when you want temporary rather than developing color. |
Check the ingredient list for DHA and read the application directions before choosing. A bronzer gives temporary color that washes off, which is useful when the tan only needs to outlast the occasion. A tinted product can also contain DHA, so visible color on application does not tell you whether the product is only makeup.12
How does self tanner work?
DHA reacts with amino acids in the outermost skin layer, called the stratum corneum. The reaction creates brown pigments called melanoidins. These pigments produce the tanned appearance; self tanner does not need sunlight or a tanning bed to activate it. DHA provides a safer route to a tanned appearance than UV tanning, but the color is not sun protection.34
Formulation improvements have reduced problems such as unwanted color tones and streakiness. Application still affects the finish, so the bottle cannot do the blending for you. A self tanner is something you can apply at home without professional assistance.34
How to get an even finish
- 1Exfoliate before applying. Use a washcloth or an exfoliating product to remove dead skin cells, spending extra time on elbows, knees and ankles.
- 2Dry your skin thoroughly. Applying self tanner to dry skin helps the color go on evenly.
- 3Apply in sections. Work through your arms, legs and torso, massaging the product into your skin with circular movements.
- 4Wash your hands with soap and water after each section to avoid orange palms.
- 5Blend the edges. Lightly extend the product from wrists onto hands and from ankles onto feet.
- 6Dilute the color over joints. Knees, ankles and elbows absorb more tanner. Lightly rub these areas with a damp towel, or apply a thin layer of lotion over the tanner.
- 7Let your skin dry. Wait at least 10 minutes before dressing, then wear loose clothing and avoid sweating for the next three hours.
Follow your product's label for the amount to apply, any rinse instructions and repeat applications. Set aside enough time for application and drying rather than putting it on immediately before dressing or exercise.2
How long does the color take to develop?
Color generally begins developing around one hour after application and is most prominent after 8 to 24 hours. It usually lasts three to ten days. DHA color resists soap, water and sweat better than a wash off bronzer. Maintenance frequency depends on the product and body area; thinner skin needs more frequent application than thicker skin.3
How does gradual self tanner work?
A gradual self tanner containing DHA uses the same surface coloring reaction, rather than a different kind of tan. DHA concentration affects the depth of color, and repeated applications help maintain it. Follow the label's schedule instead of assuming every gradual lotion needs daily use. Frequent application at high concentrations can produce more yellow or orange color.123
Who should be careful?
Self tanners can cause dryness, irritation or contact dermatitis, an inflammatory skin reaction. Added ingredients can worsen rosacea or eczema. Check the full ingredient list for substances you already know you are sensitive to. Avoid DHA during pregnancy and in children because its effects in these groups have not been widely studied.13
DHA is permitted for external skin application, not inhalation, ingestion or use around the eyes, on lips or on surfaces lined with mucous membranes. Creams and lotions make these exposures easier to avoid than an all over mist. For a spray tan, ask how the salon protects the entire eye area, nose, mouth and ears, and prevents inhalation. Choose another salon if it cannot provide that protection.12
Reported reactions include rashes and, particularly with spray booths, coughing, dizziness and fainting. The cause of these reactions is not always clear. Tanning pills are not an alternative: none are FDA approved, and some can cause liver damage and eye problems.12
Do you still need sunscreen?
Most self tanning sprays and lotions do not contain sunscreen, so a darker finish is not permission to retire the sunscreen bottle. Apply sunscreen daily, including when your self tanner has an SPF. Choose SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum protection against UVA and UVB, and water resistance. Sun protective clothing remains useful too.235
Where this answer comes from
- 1Sunless Tanners & Bronzersfda.gov
- 2Tanning Productsfda.gov
- 3Dihydroxyacetone, tanning cream, sunless tanningdermnetnz.org
- 4In search of the perfect tan: Chemical activity, biological effects, business considerations, and consumer implications of dihydroxyacetone sunless tanning prodpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 5How to apply self-tanneraad.org
