Skin care 101: How to build a daily routine

What should you buy first?

Choose products for your skin's needs rather than buying a complete collection. Dry skin needs attention to hydration; oily skin and acne call for different choices. Sensitive skin needs particular care with new products. A gentle, nonmedicated cleanser is a practical starting point. For dry skin, a cleanser containing hyaluronic acid can help maintain hydration. Ceramides or hyaluronic acid in a moisturizer can help when products leave skin dry.23

Choose ingredients for a specific purpose rather than relying on marketing claims. Introduce new products one at a time. For sensitive skin, try a pea sized dot behind your ear along your jawline and wait a day or two before applying the product to your whole face. Natural ingredients can also cause allergies.3

Your morning routine

1. 1Wash gently. Wet your face with warm water, apply a mild cleanser with your fingertips in gentle circles, rinse completely and pat dry with a clean towel. Do not scrub.
2. 2Apply moisturizer. Moisturizer helps keep water from evaporating out of your skin. Use it in the morning and evening.
3. 3Apply sunscreen last. Choose broad spectrum protection, SPF 30 or higher and water resistance. Use a separate facial sunscreen rather than relying only on SPF in foundation or concealer.

Your evening routine

1. 1Remove makeup if you wear it. A makeup remover, micellar water or balm can help remove makeup that your cleanser leaves behind. Choose fragrance free wipes if you use wipes.
2. 2Cleanse gently. Wash away the day's dirt and grime without rubbing or scrubbing your face.
3. 3Apply moisturizer. If you use an additional treatment, follow its directions; the general layering order is lighter products before thicker creams. Sunscreen is not needed at night.

Wash your face after sweating as well as when waking and before bed. Scrubbing does not make cleansing more effective for irritated skin; it can worsen skin conditions, including acne.2

How to make sunscreen count

Broad spectrum sunscreen protects against ultraviolet A and B rays, usually shortened to UVA and UVB. SPF describes protection against UVB damage. Apply sunscreen generously to all exposed skin, including your face, ears, nose, neck and hands, 30 minutes before going outdoors. Use a lip balm with sunscreen too. Follow the package directions for reapplication, usually at least every two hours, and always reapply after swimming or sweating. Water resistance does not remove the need to reapply.4

Use sun protection on cloudy days and in winter, even for short trips outdoors. Add protective clothing, a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses that block UVA and UVB. Limit sun exposure, particularly from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.; sunscreen is not a reason to stay out longer. If sunscreen chemicals irritate your skin, choose a mineral sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide. For babies younger than six months, speak to their healthcare provider before using sunscreen.4

Do you need serums, toner or exfoliation?

These are additions, not the starting kit. Toner is optional and can dry or irritate sensitive skin. A vitamin C serum can help reduce dark spots and support sun protection, but cannot replace sunscreen. If you use a serum, apply it after cleansing and before moisturizer. Use one serum at a time rather than combining several.1

Retinol and other retinoids, ingredients related to vitamin A, can help with acne, dark spots and fine lines. They belong in the evening routine before moisturizer and can cause dryness. Exfoliating products remove dead skin cells, but abrasive brushes and scrubs can irritate skin. Adding more treatments increases the chances of side effects; choose an addition for a particular goal rather than making every category compulsory.1

Where do facial masks fit?

Masks can add hydration and support the skin barrier, the outer layer that helps protect your skin. For dry or sensitive skin, ingredients such as glycerin, ceramides and hyaluronic acid can be useful. Avoid masks containing fragrance, essential oils, rubbing alcohol or abrasive particles such as walnut shells.5

Test a new mask on small areas first. Follow the label's frequency and contact time, and apply moisturizer after washing the mask off. Avoid duplicating exfoliating ingredients already in your routine, especially if you use retinol or acids. Wash a mask off immediately if it itches, burns or stings. Masks cannot replace treatment for acne or eczema.5

What should you expect, and when should you get help?

The basics serve different purposes: cleansing removes dirt, moisturizer helps retain water, and daily sunscreen can slow skin aging and help prevent skin cancer. There is no single results timetable for the whole routine. Stop a new product if irritation develops and arrange a dermatologist appointment. Get a spot checked if it differs from your other spots, changes, itches or bleeds. Persistent concerns or unusual skin symptoms need assessment rather than more products.123