Skincare at 30: What should your routine include?

What changes at 30?

Skin changes with age, including wrinkles, dryness and age spots. Over time, skin also becomes thinner, loses some fullness and takes longer to heal. Those changes do not arrive on a single birthday. Choose products around what your skin needs now, rather than treating every possible sign of aging in advance. A birthday is not a reason to replace a routine that already suits your skin, however much shelf space the industry has prepared for the occasion.34

Sunlight is a major cause of skin aging, and smoking also contributes to wrinkles. Protection matters alongside treatment: sunscreen, shade and protective clothing help reduce sun exposure. Avoid tanning beds and sunlamps. A wrinkle cream cannot replace those habits.3

What should you use in the morning?

1. 1Wash gently. Use a mild cleanser, lukewarm water and your fingertips. Gently massage the cleanser over your face, then pat dry rather than rubbing.
2. 2Apply an optional vitamin C serum or cream. Use vitamin C after cleansing and before sunscreen if dark spots or signs of aging are your main concern.
3. 3Apply moisturizer. Choose a formula that fits your skin type and how much hydration you need.
4. 4Finish with sunscreen. Use SPF 30 or higher with broad spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays. Apply sunscreen after other skincare products and beneath makeup.

A gentle, nonmedicated cleanser is a useful starting point. Dry skin benefits from a hydrating formula; avoid cleansers with microbeads, which can cause irritation and inflammation. Cleansing should remove what needs removing without becoming a daily scrubbing session.12

What should you use at night?

1. 1Remove makeup if you wear it. A makeup remover, micellar water or balm can help remove makeup that your cleanser leaves behind.
2. 2Wash with your gentle cleanser. Morning and evening cleansing suits many people, but cleansing at least once daily is the minimum.
3. 3Apply a retinoid if it is part of your routine. Use it before bed, waiting 20 to 30 minutes after washing your face.
4. 4Apply moisturizer. If a retinoid is too drying, apply moisturizer immediately after cleansing, then wait 20 to 30 minutes before applying the retinoid.

Toner is optional, which is awkward for a product named as though it has a job title. Some toners help remove leftover dirt or makeup, but alcohol based formulas can strip natural oils and cause dryness or irritation.4

How do you make sunscreen count?

Use sunscreen every day, including winter. SPF describes protection against UVB rays; broad spectrum protection covers UVA as well. On UK labels, look for SPF 30 or higher and at least four star UVA protection. UVA protection can also be shown by "UVA" inside a circle. For planned outdoor activities such as golf or a beach day, choose SPF 50 or higher.16

Cover exposed skin, including your face, neck and ears. Applying sunscreen too thinly reduces protection. Around six to eight teaspoons is a guide for covering an adult's entire body, not just the face. For prolonged sun exposure that risks burning, apply sunscreen 30 minutes before going out and again just before leaving.6

Reapply every two hours during sun exposure, and straight after swimming, sweating or towel drying. Water resistant sunscreen still needs reapplication. Follow the product's instructions and check its expiry date. Use shade, clothing, sunglasses and a hat too; sunscreen is not permission to stay in the sun longer.6

Should you start retinol at 30?

Retinol is an option for uneven tone, dark spots and skin texture. It belongs to the retinoid family, a group of vitamin A based treatments that can also address mild fine lines, wrinkles and acne. Choose by your concern rather than assuming every retinoid has the same role. Adapalene, for example, is available without a prescription for acne, while several other acne retinoids are prescribed.2

Retinol can irritate skin, especially when you are new to using it or have sensitive skin. A thin layer of moisturizer before retinol can help with tolerability. Prescription strength is not necessary for most people. Expect improvements from regular use of a nonprescription retinol product in about three months, rather than after a few applications.5

Is vitamin C worth adding?

Vitamin C is optional. It is an antioxidant, meaning it helps counter molecules called free radicals that damage skin. Vitamin C also supports production of collagen, the protein that gives skin structure, support and strength. It can brighten skin and reduce the appearance of fine lines. Choose an opaque container that limits light exposure, because light can inactivate vitamin C. Avoid clear bottles and jars with wide openings.5

Which moisturizer should you choose?

Choose moisturizer around dryness and your skin's needs. Moisturizer can temporarily add fullness, softening the appearance of fine lines. Ceramides help keep skin hydrated. Fragrance free formulas are a useful choice for sensitive skin because added scents can trigger irritation or allergic reactions. If you already use a retinol serum, avoid doubling up with a retinol moisturizer.57

Do you need an exfoliator?

Exfoliation is an optional addition, not a requirement at 30. A glycolic acid cleanser can help brighten skin and reduce pigmentation. Avoid rough scrubbing. Overusing exfoliating products can damage the skin barrier, the protective outer layer, leaving skin raw and irritated. Adding exfoliation is not useful if it makes the rest of your routine harder to tolerate.24

How should you introduce new products?

Introduce one new product at a time so you can assess tolerance. For sensitive skin, try a small amount behind your ear along the jawline and wait a day or two before using it across your face. An expensive product is not automatically more useful, even if the receipt makes it look like a serious commitment. Pick ingredients that address your concern, rather than buying by price or label claims.47

Stop using a product if it irritates your skin. Otherwise, allow at least 30 days to judge whether a product is working; retinol needs longer. See a dermatologist for unusual skin symptoms or a condition such as eczema or rosacea that affects your quality of life.24