Skin care over 30: what should your routine include?

What is a good skin care routine for women over 30?

In the morning, cleanse, moisturize and protect

1. 1Wash with a gentle cleanser and lukewarm water. Massage with your hands and pat dry rather than rubbing with a towel.
2. 2If you use a morning serum, apply it after cleansing and before moisturizer. One serum is enough; vitamin C is an option for dark spots and signs of aging.
3. 3Apply moisturizer to help keep water in your skin.
4. 4Finish with broad spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher, then apply makeup. Broad spectrum means protection against both UVA and UVB, the two types of ultraviolet radiation.

At night, remove makeup and use your treatment

1. 1Remove makeup if you wear it. A makeup remover can help when your cleanser does not remove everything.
2. 2Wash with a gentle cleanser suited to your skin type.
3. 3If you use a topical retinoid, apply it before bed. Wait 20 to 30 minutes after washing before applying it.
4. 4Apply moisturizer. If the retinoid is too drying, put moisturizer on immediately after cleansing, then apply the retinoid 20 to 30 minutes later.

Which treatment is worth adding?

Retinoids are vitamin A based skin treatments. They can improve mild fine lines, wrinkles, acne, dark spots and texture. Retinol is one type of retinoid used for uneven tone and texture. Acne treatments include adapalene, which is available in some products without a prescription, and prescription options such as tretinoin. Vitamin C is another option for dark spots and signs of aging; use it after morning cleansing. Vitamin C complements sunscreen rather than replacing it.13

Use a product consistently for at least 30 days before judging whether it is working, unless it irritates your skin. That is a first assessment point, not a deadline for fine lines or dark spots to disappear. Introduce new products one at a time so you can identify which one causes a reaction. Retinoids can dry the skin, so moisturizer belongs in the routine alongside them.123

Adjust the routine to your skin, not the calendar

• For dry skin, choose a hydrating cleanser. Moisturizers containing ceramides or hyaluronic acid can help when a treatment leaves skin dry.
• For oily or acne prone skin, look for sunscreen labeled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores. A cleanser containing salicylic acid or benzoyl peroxide is an option for breakouts.
• For sensitive skin, test a small amount behind your ear along the jawline and wait a day or two before using it across your face. Avoid heavily fragranced products.
• For darker skin tones, a tinted sunscreen can help avoid the white cast left by some sunscreens.

Do you need toner, eye cream or exfoliation?

Toners can dry or irritate sensitive skin, and moisturizer is often preferable around sensitive eyes. Exfoliation can help remove dead skin and even out tone, but scrubbing and overusing exfoliating products can damage the skin barrier, the protective outer layer. Avoid abrasive brushes and salt or sugar scrubs. Do not combine a vitamin C serum with chemical exfoliants in the same morning routine.13

Sunscreen needs more than a morning application

Apply sunscreen to all exposed skin, including your face, neck and ears. Reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming, sweating or towel drying, even when the sunscreen is water resistant. Follow the application instructions on the product. Applying sunscreen too thinly reduces protection; about six to eight teaspoons is a guide for covering an adult's entire body, not just the face.5

Choose at least SPF 30. On UK sunscreen labels, also look for at least four star UVA protection or the letters "UVA" inside a circle. Check the expiry information, including how long the sunscreen lasts after opening. A separate facial sunscreen is preferable to relying on the SPF in foundation or concealer.25

Ultraviolet rays can damage skin without warmth or bright sunshine, so cloudy weather does not remove the need for protection. Use shade, a hat, protective clothing and sunglasses as well as sunscreen. In the UK, the strongest sun is usually between 11am and 3pm from March to October. Check the UV index before going out; a level of three or higher calls for sun protection. People of every skin tone can get skin cancer.56

What are some skin care tips for people over 30?

Choose products by your goals and useful ingredients, not their price. Remove makeup before bed, avoid tanning and change products when your skin's needs change. Resist repeatedly switching routines: frequent changes can leave you with irritation rather than visible progress.23

What changes if you take isotretinoin?

Oral isotretinoin is a prescription acne medicine, not a routine cosmetic step. It commonly causes dryness and can make skin more sensitive to the sun. Apply moisturizer while skin is damp after cleansing and whenever it feels dry. Choose broad spectrum, water resistant SPF 30 or higher; a mineral sunscreen containing zinc oxide or titanium dioxide can help sensitive skin. Isotretinoin must not be taken during pregnancy because it can cause severe birth defects and pregnancy loss. Follow your dermatologist's treatment and pregnancy prevention requirements.7

When should you stop a product or see a doctor?

Stop a product that causes irritation and arrange a dermatologist appointment if you develop a skin reaction. Seek help for a skin condition that affects your quality of life. Check your skin regularly and report a new mole, growth or lump, or a mark that changes size, shape or colour. Bleeding, itching or a mark that feels different also needs a doctor's assessment.1356