What actually changes your skin colour?

MethodHow the colour happensWhat to expectMain distinction
Sun or sunbed tanningUV exposure triggers more melanin, the pigment that colours skin.Skin can darken over the next 48 hours.The colour change signals skin damage.
DHA self tannerDihydroxyacetone, or DHA, reacts with amino acids at the skin's surface.Colour usually begins around one hour, peaks after 8 to 24 hours, and lasts 3 to 10 days.The colour resists soap, water and sweat better than temporary bronzer.
Temporary bronzerTinted moisturizers and brush on powders add cosmetic colour.The effect is temporary and washes off.It behaves like makeup rather than a developing self tan.
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The names overlap: a product sold as a bronzer can also contain DHA, so check the ingredients rather than treating the name as an application manual. A temporary bronzer washes off like makeup, which is a modest commitment for something called a tan.2

How do tanning and bronzing lotions differ?

A DHA tanning lotion develops surface colour; a temporary bronzing lotion or tinted moisturizer adds washable colour. Some products combine both effects. DHA creams and lotions often include moisturizers, while mousses and foams dry relatively quickly and can suit oily skin. DHA concentrations range from 1 to 15%, most commonly 4 to 8%, and the concentration affects the depth of colour. Frequent application at high concentrations can produce more yellow or orange pigmentation.23

How do tanning and bronzing powders differ?

Brush on bronzing powder gives a temporary tanned appearance, like other makeup. Choose temporary powder when you want washable colour rather than the several days of colour a DHA self tanner produces.23

What are the risks of tanning vs bronzing?

There is no safe UV tan. UV exposure can cause sunburn, premature skin aging, skin cancer and eye damage. Unprotected exposure breaks down collagen and elastin, the fibres that help keep skin firm and elastic. Wrinkles, dark spots and a leathery texture can appear years after tanning. Getting darker without burning is still a sign of damage, not a safer result.1

A base tan does not protect against sunburn. Sunbeds expose users to intense UV radiation and can cause serious burns and other injuries. Avoid indoor tanning rather than trying to build colour before a holiday. Sun protection matters throughout the year: UV rays reach skin on cool or cloudy days and reflect from water, sand, cement and snow.4

Melanoma risk is higher with pale skin that burns easily, red or blonde hair, blue or green eyes, many freckles or moles, repeated sunburn, frequent sunbed use, or a personal or family history of skin cancer. Black or brown skin has a lower chance of melanoma, but melanoma still occurs. On darker skin, it most often appears on the soles, palms or under a nail.5

DHA self tanner avoids UV tanning but can cause dryness, irritation or contact dermatitis, an inflamed skin reaction. Added ingredients can worsen eczema or rosacea. Avoid DHA during pregnancy and in children because its effects in these groups have not been widely studied. People with lung disease should be cautious with sprays because inhaled DHA can irritate lung tissue.3

In the US, DHA is permitted for external skin application, not the eye area, lips or surfaces covered by mucous membranes. Before a spray tan, ask how the facility protects those areas and prevents inhalation or swallowing. Creams and lotions make these exposure routes easier to avoid. Reports after sunless tanning include rashes and, especially after booth sprays, coughing, dizziness and fainting; the causes remain uncertain.2

What are some tanning and bronzing tips?

Apply self tanner in sections for even coverage, because an even finish is not a speed competition.6

  1. 1Exfoliate with a washcloth before applying self tanner. Spend extra time on thicker skin at the elbows, knees and ankles.
  2. 2Dry your skin thoroughly so the product goes on evenly.
  3. 3Apply in sections, such as arms, legs and then torso, massaging in a circular motion.
  4. 4Wash your hands with soap and water after each section to prevent orange palms.
  5. 5Lightly blend colour from wrists onto hands and from ankles onto feet.
  6. 6Dilute colour on elbows, knees and ankles, which absorb more product. Lightly rub with a damp towel or apply a thin layer of lotion over the self tanner.
  7. 7Wait at least 10 minutes before dressing. Wear loose clothing and avoid sweating for the next three hours.
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There is no single reapplication schedule for DHA: how often you need it depends on the body area, with thinner skin requiring more frequent application. Let the colour develop before deciding whether you need more.3

Does tanning or bronzing replace sunscreen?

The colour itself does not protect you. Check for sunscreen ingredients and an SPF label rather than assuming a tanner or bronzer provides protection. Use sunscreen every day even if your self tanner has SPF. Choose SPF 30 or higher, water resistance and broad spectrum protection against both UVA and UVB rays.267

Apply sunscreen about 15 minutes before going outdoors to all skin not covered by clothing. Most adults need at least one ounce to cover exposed skin, with more needed depending on body size. Use at least one teaspoon for the face. Reapply every two hours outdoors and immediately after swimming or sweating. Add shade, covered arms and legs, a wide brimmed hat and sunglasses that block UVA and UVB; sunscreen is only one part of sun protection.47

When should you see a doctor?

Severe sunburn needs urgent medical assessment, especially widespread blistering with headache, fever or chills. Have a doctor check a mole or dark spot that changes size or colour, unexplained scaling, oozing or bleeding, or a spot that becomes itchy, tender or painful. Eye pain, tearing, swollen eyelids or blurred vision after UV exposure also need medical attention.1

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1The Risks of Tanningfda.gov
  2. 2Sunless Tanners & Bronzersfda.gov
  3. 3Dihydroxyacetone, tanning cream, sunless tanningdermnetnz.org
  4. 4Reducing Risk for Skin Cancer | Skin Cancercdc.gov
  5. 5Causes of melanoma skin cancer - NHSnhs.uk
  6. 6How to apply self-tanneraad.org
  7. 7How to apply sunscreenaad.org