Why different wrinkles need different treatments

Wrinkles develop through a combination of aging, sun damage and repeated facial muscle movement. As skin ages, it retains moisture less easily and loses collagen and elastin, proteins that give skin structure and flexibility. Sun exposure also damages collagen. Moisturizer helps with the appearance of fine lines by adding hydration; retinoids act on collagen; injections address muscle movement or deeper folds. These are different jobs, not interchangeable bottles.23

What should you use first?

OptionMain purposeWho should consider it
MoisturizerTraps water and temporarily plumps some fine linesSomeone wanting an immediate improvement in fine lines
Broad spectrum sunscreen, SPF 30 or higherLimits exposure to sunlight that accelerates agingAnyone building a wrinkle care routine
RetinolSupports collagen production and gradually reduces fine linesSomeone wanting a treatment available without a prescription
Prescription tretinoinTreats wrinkles associated with sun damageSomeone ready to discuss a prescription treatment with a dermatologist
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Choose by the treatment you need, not by the price or the number of products in a set. Affordable products can be effective, which is awkward for a price tag trying to do the clinical work. Using several wrinkle products together tends to irritate skin and can make signs of aging more noticeable.1

How to build a wrinkle care routine

  1. 1Test a new product before applying it to your face. Dab a small amount on your inner forearm twice daily for 4 to 5 days. A product labeled hypoallergenic still needs testing.
  2. 2Use sunscreen every day. Choose broad spectrum protection with SPF 30 or higher and cover skin not protected by clothing. Avoid tanning outdoors or in tanning beds.
  3. 3At bedtime, wash with a gentle cleanser and pat your face dry. Do not scrub while using retinol.
  4. 4Apply retinol as directed on its package. General guidance is a thin layer, about a pea sized amount for the whole face, keeping it out of your eyes, nose and mouth. Start every other night, or less frequently if needed.
  5. 5Finish with a facial moisturizer labeled noncomedogenic, meaning formulated not to clog pores. Follow your prescriber's directions instead of this general sequence if you use a prescription treatment.
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Should you choose retinol or prescription tretinoin?

Retinoids are vitamin A related ingredients; retinol is one available without a prescription. Retinol increases collagen production, while tretinoin promotes new collagen formation and helps prevent collagen loss. Tretinoin has consistent clinical trial evidence for improving wrinkles caused by sun damage, also called photoaging. Consider discussing tretinoin if cosmetic retinol has not delivered the improvement you want.236

There is no single best tretinoin strength established for every person. Research has used different concentrations, formulas and application methods, so your prescriber should choose the treatment and directions. A 0.05% tretinoin formula has been studied for photoaging, but that is not a reason to select that strength yourself. With topical retinoids, excessive use causes redness and peeling; starting with a small amount on alternate nights helps reduce irritation.56

How long does wrinkle treatment take?

Moisturizer can plump fine lines immediately. Most wrinkle products need at least six weeks, and some take three months. Retinol usually needs several months before a visible wrinkle difference appears. With tretinoin, significant improvement has been reported after four months, with continued improvement during treatment over 24 months. Think in terms of gradual softening of lines, not the disappearance of every fold.126

Who should be careful with retinoids?

Retinol can cause dryness, redness, itching, peeling and burning, and makes skin more sensitive to sunlight. If your skin is sensitive or you are prone to allergies, discuss alternatives before starting. Prescription topical tretinoin, isotretinoin and adapalene should not be used during pregnancy. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your healthcare provider before using retinol rather than treating an over the counter product as automatically suitable.25

Stop a cosmetic product that stings or burns. For a prescribed product, contact your dermatologist about symptoms and follow their instructions, because some prescribed treatments cause irritation under supervision. Persistent skin inflammation needs assessment rather than another active ingredient.15

What about vitamin C, acids and peptides?

Vitamin C, glycolic acid and other alpha hydroxy acids, peptides and plant extracts appear in cosmetic treatments for sun damaged skin. These products can improve its appearance, but the most effective option among the many formulas is not settled. Cosmetic products are often promoted with exaggerated claims, so the packaging can be more ambitious than the contents. Adding several of these formulas is not a necessary step before discussing a prescription or procedure.5

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1Wrinkle remediesaad.org
  2. 2Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3How to Get Rid of Wrinkles: Retinol, Fillers & Other Treatmentsmy.clevelandclinic.org
  4. 4Anti-aging skin careaad.org
  5. 5Common skin lesions. Topical treatment of photodamagedermnetnz.org
  6. 6Topical tretinoin for treating photoaging: A systematic review of randomized controlled trialspmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov