What does mandelic acid do for skin?

What mandelic acid can help with

The main role of mandelic acid is exfoliation. Chemical peels as a group are used for concerns such as acne, pigmentation, fine lines and texture, but their ingredients and strength affect what they do. Those broader peel benefits should not be treated as results guaranteed by every mandelic acid product.2

A trial enrolled 45 patients with mild to moderate acne, divided into three groups of 15. One group received a peel containing 20% salicylic acid and 10% mandelic acid. By week 12, that group's acne score had fallen by 74.14%. The study tested a combination peel, so mandelic acid did not get a solo credit sequence.3

Another human study tested a four week treatment containing tranexamic acid and mandelic acid, not mandelic acid alone. The combination reduced pigmentation more than tranexamic acid alone. The four week pigmentation result belongs to the tranexamic acid and mandelic acid complex; the ingredients arrived as a pair and split the credit accordingly.1

How to use mandelic acid

1. 1Follow the directions for the exact product, including how often to use it and how long to leave it on. Higher strengths and extra ingredients can make a peel more aggressive, so do not borrow a schedule from a different formula.
2. 2Do a use test first. Apply a small amount to your jawline or behind your ear and wait a day before using the product more widely. Take extra care if your skin is sensitive, dry or affected by eczema.
3. 3If you use retinol, tretinoin or adapalene, account for the fact that these can thin the top layer of skin, allowing a peel to go deeper. Ask the clinician who manages a prescription retinoid before adding a peel.
4. 4Some alpha hydroxy acids are considered safe during pregnancy and nursing. Do not assume that every mandelic acid formula has the same status; check the pregnancy guidance for the exact product.

Alpha hydroxy acid products can make skin more vulnerable to sunlight. Use water resistant sunscreen with SPF 30 or above and reapply often. Avoid using mandelic acid or other acids on sunburned skin.4

After a peel, redness, a sunburned look, peeling or flaking can last three to seven days. In the acne trial, improvement was measured by week 12 after a combination peel, so that timeline is not a schedule or result to expect from every home product. If the test area becomes inflamed or reacts, do not apply the product more widely; contact a dermatologist for a strong reaction.2

Is mandelic acid good for sensitive skin?

Mandelic acid is described as suitable for sensitive skin because it penetrates more slowly than other alpha hydroxy acids. That does not mean it cannot irritate skin. Use a test area first, particularly if your skin is also dry or affected by eczema, and do not continue if it becomes inflamed or reacts.12