What does cleansing balm actually remove?

An oil based first cleanser helps break down makeup, sunscreen residue and sebum, the oil your skin produces. A water based cleanser then removes water soluble material, such as sweat and dirt. A balm is useful when makeup needs removing, not because the bathroom shelf needs another employee.2

Water alone cannot easily remove oily dirt that sticks to skin. Cleansers use surfactants, cleaning ingredients with a part that attaches to oil and dirt and another part that allows them to wash away with water. How a cleanser feels, lathers and rinses depends on its formulation, so the word balm does not tell you everything about the product.3

How do you use cleansing balm?

For a double cleanse, use this general sequence:

  1. 1Gently massage the first cleanser into your skin with your fingertips to loosen makeup, oil and sunscreen. Avoid scrubbing or using a sponge.
  2. 2Rinse thoroughly with lukewarm water rather than hot water.
  3. 3Keep your face damp, then gently apply a water based cleanser.
  4. 4Rinse again and pat dry with a soft towel. Apply moisturizer if your skin is dry or itchy.
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There is no universal rule for how many seconds to massage a cleanser. Cleansing time depends on the cleanser, your skin and what needs removing. You are removing surface material during the wash, rather than waiting weeks for a treatment effect.13

Do you need cleansing balm every day?

Use a balm in the evening when you need to remove makeup or stubborn sunscreen. It is not automatically needed in the morning. General face washing advice is to cleanse morning and night, and after heavy sweating; that does not mean using a balm at every wash. For dry or sensitive skin, washing with water in the morning and using cleanser only at night is an option.145

Most people can clean their face adequately with one thorough wash using a gentle cleanser. A second cleanse is optional, not an entrance exam for having a skincare routine. If you do not wear makeup and your cleanser removes what is on your face, there is little reason to add another washing step.12

What if your skin is sensitive or prone to acne?

Choose gentle cleansers without fragrance, alcohol or abrasive particles. For dry, sensitive skin, a gentle cream cleanser is less drying than a foaming cleanser. Sensitive skin can sting during or just after cleansing, so extra washing is not necessarily an improvement.234

Oil based cleansers can cause breakouts in skin prone to acne, especially when used alone. An alternative is an oil free makeup remover followed by a gentle cleanser. Look for products labelled noncomedogenic, meaning designed not to clog pores. Cleansing balm is for cleaning, not treating acne: acne involves oil and dead cells blocking pores, and oily skincare products can worsen it.256

Stop using a cleanser that causes redness, itching or swelling. If extra cleansing leaves your skin dry or irritated, reduce unnecessary washes or change to a gentler cleanser. Be cautious with acne treatment cleansers alongside acne products left on the skin, because combining them can cause excessive dryness and irritation. A dermatologist can help if new breakouts persist or you cannot identify the product causing them.135

Where this answer comes from

  1. 1How Often Should You Wash Your Face?health.clevelandclinic.org
  2. 2Double Cleansing Method Explainedhealth.clevelandclinic.org
  3. 3Soaps and cleansersdermnetnz.org
  4. 4Face washing 101aad.org
  5. 5I have acne! Is it okay to wear makeup?aad.org
  6. 6Acnebad.org.uk