What plant does heartleaf come from?
Houttuynia cordata is a perennial plant, meaning it lives for several years. It has a long history as both food and traditional medicine in countries including China, Korea and Japan. Other common names include chameleon plant and fish wort. Heartleaf and Houttuynia cordata name the same plant, so the ingredient has not changed just because the label has become harder to pronounce.1
The extract contains several groups of plant compounds, including flavonoids, phenolic acids and volatile oils. Flavonoids are plant compounds with biological activity; heartleaf contains compounds associated with antioxidant and inflammation reducing activity. Different plant parts contain different mixes of compounds, so heartleaf extract is not one single substance.1
What does heartleaf do for skin?
Heartleaf's practical role is supportive care for irritation or breakouts. Laboratory testing has found antibacterial activity and activity against enzymes that break down hyaluronic acid, collagen and elastin. These substances help skin hold water and maintain structure.2
Heartleaf's effectiveness as a treatment still needs further investigation. Treat it as a supporting ingredient rather than a replacement for acne treatment or a quick tightening effect.12
Does a higher extract percentage mean better results?
Not necessarily. Extraction changes the amount of active plant compounds. Concentration, other ingredients, pH and texture also matter. Choose a formula your skin tolerates, not a percentage alone.2
How do you use heartleaf?
- 1Patch test first.
- 2Introduce one new product at a time. Apply a toner or serum after cleansing.
- 3Follow with moisturizer, then sunscreen in the morning.
Daily use, morning or evening, can be appropriate when tolerated. Heartleaf can support hydration, but it does not get to retire your moisturizer.2
What if you use strong actives or prescriptions?
With retinoids, benzoyl peroxide, acids or prescription acne care, introduce heartleaf slowly. Keep other products stable for several days; avoid adding multiple exfoliating acids that week.2
Which plant compounds give heartleaf antioxidant activity?
Two compounds isolated from heartleaf, quercitrin and a related quercetin compound, have shown free radical scavenging activity, a form of antioxidant activity. Quercitrin has also been investigated for reducing inflammatory responses. These are properties of individual plant compounds, not a timetable for visible changes from a heartleaf toner.1
Is heartleaf extract just an extract of the leaves?
Heartleaf research includes extracts from leaves, stems, underground parts and the whole plant. Leaves and above ground stems have been found to contain prominent amounts of myrcene, ocimene and decanal, components of the plant's volatile oils. Underground stems have a different chemical profile. The word heartleaf identifies the plant, but does not by itself identify the plant part or extraction process.1
Should you choose a cleanser or a toner?
Choose by the job: a cleanser removes residue; a toner or serum adds a calming step after cleansing. For redness prone skin, keep the routine short rather than adding several active treatments.2
Where this answer comes from
- 1The therapeutic potential of Houttuynia cordata: A current reviewpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 2Heartleaf Benefits for Skin: Soothing, Acne and Hydrationpages.anua.com