| Difference | Retinol | Exfoliating acids |
|---|---|---|
| What they are | A vitamin A skin care ingredient. Over the counter products are common; stronger retinoids are available by prescription. | Chemical exfoliants, including alpha and beta hydroxy acids, that dissolve dead skin cells. |
| What they do | Increase skin cell production and turnover, exfoliate, and help unclog pores. | Remove dead skin cells. Some acid cleansers can also even skin tone. |
| Common uses | Acne, clogged pores, fine lines and wrinkles. | Dead cell buildup and uneven tone. Salicylic acid peels can reach into pores; lactic acid peels gently exfoliate. |
| How to use | Use at bedtime and start slowly, such as every other day. | Frequency depends on skin type and method; more aggressive exfoliation should be less frequent. |
| Main caution | Can irritate skin and increase sensitivity to sunlight. | Overuse can irritate skin. Exfoliating while using retinol may worsen dryness or breakouts. |
Choose an acid when your main aim is shedding dead cells or evening skin tone. Salicylic acid is a specific option for frequent acne breakouts, while lactic acid gently exfoliates. Choose retinol for clogged pores or acne, or to address fine lines and wrinkles. Retinol and acids both sit under the chemical exfoliant label, so the category has the filing discipline of a shared apartment.3
If your skin is dry, sensitive or acne prone, a mild chemical exfoliator may suit you better than a physical scrub. Be cautious with strong exfoliation if you have a darker skin tone or develop dark marks after irritation, since aggressive exfoliation can increase pigmentation.2
How to start using them
- 1Start with one active, not both at once. Exfoliating while using retinol can worsen dry skin or acne breakouts.
- 2For retinol, test a small patch first. Cleanse gently, pat skin dry, apply a thin layer at bedtime, and finish with moisturizer. Begin every other day for the first couple of weeks, then adjust to your skin's tolerance and the product directions.
- 3For acids, follow the product directions and let your skin type and the strength of the exfoliation guide how often you use it. Once or twice a week is a useful general starting point, not a schedule for every formula.
- 4Use sunscreen daily while using retinol, since it makes skin more sensitive to sunlight. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, talk with a healthcare provider before using retinol.
Retinol comes as creams, gels, lotions, ointments and serums, because vitamin A apparently wanted five wardrobes. Retinol can cause redness, itching, burning, dryness or peeling. Reduce use if irritation starts; ask a dermatologist if it continues or you are unsure whether exfoliation suits your skin.1
Retinol can look worse at first as your skin adjusts. Expect several weeks before a visible change; regular use of an over the counter product can take about three months to show improvement.14
Where this answer comes from
- 1Retinol: Cream, Serum, What It Is, Benefits, How To Usemy.clevelandclinic.org
- 2How to safely exfoliate at homeaad.org
- 35 Ways to Exfoliate Your Skin Without Irritationhealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 4Anti-Aging Skin Care: Ingredients and Routinehealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 5Skin care for aging skin: Minimizing age spots, wrinkles, and undereye bagshealth.harvard.edu
