Which names mean rosehip oil?
Rose hip oil, rose hips oil, dog rose oil and dog briar oil are names for the same Rosa canina oil, which is quite a guest list for one ingredient. Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is the substance name associated with those common names. If you are searching an ingredient list for rosehip oil, that is the useful wording to recognise.1
What does INCI mean?
INCI stands for International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients, a long name for the system of ingredient names. In the EU, cosmetics must carry an ingredient list using common ingredient names from the European Commission's glossary, which takes INCI into account. The glossary is updated and is not exhaustive; internationally recognised names, including INCI names, can be used for ingredients not included in its current version.3
Why does the name say fruit rather than seed?
Rose hips are the fruits of roses, found beneath the flower's petals, and they contain seeds. In common skincare use, rosehip oil and rosehip seed oil refer to the same oil harvested from those seeds. The word "fruit" in Rosa Canina Fruit Oil is therefore not a reason to rule it out when you are looking for rosehip seed oil. Keep the common product description separate from the ingredient name printed on the label.12
Is rose flower oil the same thing?
Do not substitute rose flower oil for rosehip oil when checking a label. Rosehip oil comes from the seed containing fruit, while rose flower oil identifies a flower oil. Rose flower oil is classified as an established contact allergen in humans. That classification concerns rose flower oil, not a blanket classification of everything with "rose" in its name.24
Does an INCI name mean an ingredient is approved?
No. An INCI name or an entry in CosIng, the European Commission's cosmetic ingredient database, does not itself mean an ingredient is approved for cosmetic use. EU cosmetic regulations determine whether and under what conditions an ingredient can be used, and the finished product needs a safety assessment.5
What if you want to use the oil?
Pure rosehip oil can be applied directly to skin and used once or twice daily. Before applying it across your face or body, test a small amount on your forearm to check for irritation or allergy. Choose a dark amber bottle to protect the oil from UV rays, which can make it less effective.2
Where this answer comes from
- 1UNII - CR7307M3QZprecision.fda.gov
- 2Rose Hip Oil: Uses and Benefitshealth.clevelandclinic.org
- 3CosIng – Glossary of ingredientssingle-market-economy.ec.europa.eu
- 4Table 7-5: Natural extracts classified as established contact allergens in humans (summary of evaluation as detailed in chapter 6.3). More detailed information ec.europa.eu
- 5Cosmetic ingredient databasesingle-market-economy.ec.europa.eu
