These marks are called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation, or PIH: extra pigment left after inflammation. PIH can affect any skin tone but is more common in darker skin. Even mild acne can leave marks without obvious visible inflammation, so a small breakout can still leave persistent pigment.34
Which ingredient should you choose?
- Azelaic acid addresses both acne and the brown marks that remain after a spot clears.
- Retinoids can fade dark spots. Adapalene also treats blackheads, whiteheads and pimples.
- Vitamin C, glycolic acid and kojic acid are other options for fading existing pigmentation.
- Hydroquinone, arbutin and certain licorice extracts can lighten excess pigmentation. Niacinamide is another pigment treatment option.
Start with one product rather than a collection, because a bathroom shelf is not a treatment plan. If you are treating ongoing acne, use that product for 6 to 8 weeks without adding another acne treatment. Follow its directions rather than increasing applications to chase faster results.2
How do you use treatment without making more marks?
Treat active acne alongside the pigmentation. Apply acne medication in a thin layer over the whole acne prone area, not just individual pimples, to treat existing acne and help prevent the next breakout. Follow the product's instructions for how often to apply it; the routine does not need a director's cut.23
Before going outside, apply tinted sunscreen containing iron oxide, with SPF 30 or higher, broad spectrum protection and water resistance. Iron oxide helps protect against visible light, which can contribute to dark spots. Reapply every two hours outdoors and after swimming or sweating. Choose a formula labelled noncomedogenic if your skin is oily.1
Keep the rest of your skincare gentle. Irritation can worsen pigmentation, so stronger or more frequent treatment is not automatically better. Stop using a skincare product if it burns or stings.13
How long do brown marks take to fade?
Once the cause has stopped, marks a few shades darker than your skin usually fade within 6 to 12 months. Deeper pigment can take years. Treatment can speed fading, but the 4 to 8 weeks in which acne medication can reduce breakouts is not a deadline for brown marks to disappear.12
When should you see a dermatologist?
See a dermatologist if acne keeps leaving dark marks, if you have deep painful pimples or scarring, or if treatment is not giving the results you want. A treatment plan can address acne and prevent more pigmentation. If you are pregnant or trying to become pregnant, consult a dermatologist before treating acne yourself.2
Where this answer comes from
- 1How to fade dark spots in darker skin tonesaad.org
- 2Adult acne treatment dermatologists recommendaad.org
- 3Postinflammatory Hyperpigmentation: A Review of the Epidemiology, Clinical Features, and Treatment Options in Skin of Colorpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov
- 4Acne-induced Post-inflammatory Hyperpigmentation: From Grading to Treatmentpmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov